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An Audubondance of enjoyment
Hiking Audubon Canyon Ranch for more than the birds

by Matt Kramer

Now's the time to hike Audubon Canyon Ranch. Not only has the new and improved stretch of Highway 1 opened, but calendars confirm that we're between the third weekend in March and the second weekend in July. That means it's egret and heron nesting season near Bolinas Lagoon. Like the map shows, Audubon Canyon Ranch is located on Highway 1, on the outskirts of Stinson Beach. As a Marinite, you probably know that you can access the highway from Mill Valley (the way that takes you through the newly improved section). You can also drive Sir Francis Drake out to Olema and hang a left, or curve your way along Fairfax-Bolinas Road. Since I live in San Anselmo and was showing the springtime splendor of our county off to my visiting Colorado-based parents, I drove them out to Olema and hooked south on 1. On the return leg we cruised the entire stretch of Bolinas-Fairfax Road, presently gorgeous in its greenery.

However you arrive at the 1,000-acre site, it's easy to locate the visitor center to quickly register. Here, maps are provided, different routes are explained in detail and the helpful staffers even offer you binoculars and scopes that attach to stands at various vantage points, providing you with a bird's-eye view of the birds. There are eight miles of trails coursing through this preserve. This time, with my senior citizen folks along, we opted for somewhere around a 2.6-mile trek (with under 800 feet of elevation change) that started along a portion of the Griffin Loop Trail.

After registering, but before you reach the trailhead across a small clearing, you'll most likely see egrets flying overhead and hear them working in the tree boughs. The mostly shaded trail soon leads to the first overlook, about one-tenth of a mile along the hike. From here binoculars and/or a scope will help you see in detail, at treetop level, the big white egrets you probably saw flying overhead while you were in the clearing. We watched the birds leave and return, and saw a pair preening and grooming each other, too.

Continue uphill through the bay trees, oaks, firs, redwoods and more, as you ascend the sometimes moderately steep trail to the next viewing spot. Blooming Douglas irises, from lavender-hued to deep purple, were abundant on our recent visit. At about the half-mile mark, we reached the main observation point. With benches for us and mounts for the scopes, this overlook invites leisurely and lengthy viewing sessions. On our unguided weekday tour, we encountered fellow hikers with whom we shared the binoculars and scope as we spied on the nesting birds. While we exchanged bird-watching experiences, we were treated to a closeup visit by a hummingbird and also saw an osprey soaring along the nearby ridge. We watched the egrets taking offense at the presence of a crow. This is a great spot for soaking up some sunshine, too. It was pleasantly warm after the shaded hike up.

After viewing, continue hiking up the trail, which winds uphill, toward a junction at 1.2 miles. Turning right will take you along the Griffin Loop Trail, above Pitcher Canyon and through the redwoods on your way back to the beginning. Instead, we turned left on what's called Zumie's Loop Trail, as the ACR staffer recommended. This led us along a gorgeous and lush trail that offered wildflowers and views of Bolinas Lagoon while we descended back toward the Audubon site's buildings (though you won't see them until the very end). Mom was happy to see a banana slug along this portion. She seems to attract them and ospreys while hiking in Marin.

On that quiet Tuesday afternoon, we couldn't even hear Highway 1 until we were almost standing right on top of it. Zumie's Loop leads down to more benches at a vantage point overlooking the lagoon. Arriving during low tide, we trained the binoculars out on the mud flat and watched all sorts of shorebirds hunting in the muck and shallows. The benches, tables and chairs here are right above the road. It was serene and we lingered, relaxing, though I wonder if we'd have stayed as long on a weekend with hundreds more cars passing below. Leaving this spot, we were surprised to see how close we'd been to the ranch buildings, where we soon returned our binoculars and scope and slipped some cash into the donation box.

Then we stepped into an adjacent building to admire photos, models and other displays of the area's landscape and wildlife. With many more miles of trails to explore, and around 100 pairs of nesting egrets and herons, this place will definitely be seeing us again soon, hopefully when nests are lively with hatchlings.

For the next few months, the Griffin Loop Trail is open to the public (but not to pets). The site welcomes visitors from 10am-4pm on weekends, by appointment from 2pm-4pm Tuesday-Friday; it is closed Mondays. Call 415/868-9244 for reservations or more information.