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What's New: Little Marin
Marinitas captures mid-century Mexico, Cuba—viva la revolucion!

by Pat Fusco

HEARD THE NEWS? Even though her background is Italian and her popular San Anselmo restaurant serves the spirited foods of the Mediterranean, Heidi Krahling has always had a place in her heart for the cuisines of Mexico and Latin America. On Feb. 9 she will open Marinitas, her second dining establishment, a casual spot to showcase those Latin flavors. Located within blocks of Insalata's, her first restaurant, it is at 218 San Anselmo Ave. (former site of Ted's and EAT) in a setting that captures the mood of Mexico or Cuba 50 years ago. Chef Frank Villas, Krahling's longtime friend and colleague, brings not only his culinary talents (once sous chef at Sushi Ran and San Francisco's Mamacita), but also his cultural heritage to the kitchen. The menu includes fresh versions of familiar Mexican dishes (tacos, sopes, enchiladas, but no burritos) and expands into more adventurous offerings from other countries: Peruvian empanadas, Argentinean skirt steak with chimichurri, Chilean ceviche. Daily specials include hearty entrees like Monday's feijoada—Brazil's pork and black bean stew, Wednesday's chicken with mole poblano and Jaliscan pozole on Saturday. Even the desserts have Latin appeal, such as churros with canela sugar and warm chocolate sauce, tres leche cake, vanilla ice cream sundae with cajeta sauce. A full bar puts its emphasis on tequilas and specialty drinks; the wine list focuses on fine bottles from Chile and Argentina. (A bar menu is offered, available until midnight.) Under managing partner/general manager Patrick Coll, Marinitas will serve lunch and dinner daily. Expect consumer-friendly touches: All dishes cost less than $17; valet parking is available during lunch service; this can be a spot for late-night dining, a rarity in Marin. For details, visit www.marinitas.net ; for reservations, call 415/454-8900.

BREW NEWS FROM ALL OVER A recent competition at San Francisco's Michelin-rated Fifth Floor restaurant proved that the pairing of beer and fine food has come of age, with a winning performance by Marin Brewing Company's brewmaster Arne Johnson. Three-on-five was the name of the game Jan. 20 when he was pitted against sommelier Emily Wines and sake guru Beau Timken (author of Sake: A Modern Guide) to match sophisticated foods with perfect beverages. Johnson took top pairing honors in three out of the five courses, serving Orval Trappist Ale from Belgium with a rich truffled potato soup; Russian River Brewing Company's Temptation Ale with pan-seared wild striped bass with scallops, olives, artichokes, capers and lemon mousseline; and Pt. Reyes Porter from his own company with wild boar pot pie and celeriac remoulade...San Francisco Beer Week (Feb. 6-15) has inspired local venues to take part in honoring the art of brewing. Noonan's Bar & Grill at Larkspur Landing will bring Brendan Moylan (owns Noonan's, Marin Brewing Co. and Moylan's) and Moylan's brew expert Denise Jones to Whiskey, Beer, Cheese and Chocolate on Feb. 9. They will be pairing ales with edible treats from 1-5pm. Cost is $29 per person (415/464-8711). Also on Feb. 9, Horizons Restaurant on Sausalito's waterfront presents a five-course beer-tasting dinner with pairings from Sierra Nevada Brewing Company. Cost is $45 per person and the event starts at 6:30pm (415/331-3232).

GOOD NEWS FOR DINERS If you're reading this by Saturday, Feb. 7, you still have time to enjoy the second annual Gran Bollito Misto at Poggio in Sausalito. This is a celebration of a northern Italian favorite, a selection of slowly simmered meats carved and served with enhancing condiments from a carello (heated cart) by chef Peter McNee. It's a once-a-year experience that's heaven for carnivores. Cost is $19 per person; reserve at 415/332-7771...San Anselmo's AVA Restaurant introduces a lineup of weekday comfort food specials at comfortable prices: fried chicken with mashed potatoes, gravy and coleslaw on Tuesday; breaded pork cutlets with herbed spaetzle and braised cabbage on Wednesday; and lasagna made with Prather Ranch beef, Bellwether ricotta and spinach on Thursday. Each dinner is $15, and is available for takeout (5:30-8:30pm), as are other menu items. (415/453-3407)...Celebrate the Chinese New Year with dinner and a performance of the classic lion dance at Yet Wah in San Rafael. For the next two weekends (Feb. 7-8, Feb. 14-15) dancers from the Marin Chinese Cultural Center will arrive with brightly colored props and loud, happy music at 5:30pm. This is especially fun for children, and a big group makes it even more enjoyable. Reservations are highly recommended; call 415/460-9883.

NOT-SO-GOOD NEWS Do we need proof that many fast food purveyors are out to kill us? Look to Men's Health magazine and its selection of the 20 Worst Foods in America, 2009. Its survey stats about items found in our own neighborhood show horrifying results. Just because that sandwich is called "natural" doesn't mean diddly. Blimpie's 12-inch veggie supreme has three cheeses, drenched in oil and comes in at 1,106 calories with 56 grams fat, more than two Big Macs. And the winner, Worst Food of 2009? The Baskin Robbins large chocolate Oreo shake: 2,600 calories, 135 grams fat, 263 grams sugars and 1,700 milligrams sodium with more sugar than 20 bowls of Froot Loops and more calories than 11 Heath Bars, all in one fell swoop.

AUSPICIOUS MARKET NEWS A very Marin food experience is possible at the Wednesday Farmers Market in Corte Madera Town Center where at one stand a shopper can find two very different cuisines. Cathy Tsui, whose family owned San Rafael's Pier 6 for decades before its demise, sells organic dim sum (Tru Gourmet is the company name). The menu has around 16 choices, some of them gluten-free, made from organic wheat and rice flours and organic produce. Pork buns filled with Chinese barbecued pork are crowd pleasers. She shares the space with Joseph Ahearne (El Porteno) who relies on the Argentinean side of his family background for recipes for flaky empanadas. These pastries hold savory fillings of beef or chicken, cheddar cheese or a prosciutto/fontina combination. In season he will add others, like fresh corn and red peppers. Ahearne also sells a sweet version made with bananas and dulce de leche. Market hours are noon-5pm.

NEWS ON THE ROMANCE FRONT Yes, I know. Valentine's Day is coming up. Because every restaurant in the Bay Area is doing its best to seduce seducers, it is impossible to cover all the special dinners created for the evening. Call me cynical, but I'm not a fan of dining out on a night almost doomed to failure of expectation. (Chefs refer to it as "amateur night.") Much better to go out the day before or the day after, to stay at home with favorite foods or—one of my all-time choices—go out for breakfast or lunch. Anything but those weird combinations of rich ingredients purported to be luxuriously irresistible and erotic, like steak and lobster or everything-red plates. It's sweet to be surprised with a tray of morning favorites and a single perfect flower, or a picnic lunch with a bottle of bubbly. That leaves a lot more time for real romance.