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Food: Garage—sold!
We'll park it at this new restaurant anytime…

by Carol Inkellis

For several years my sister has raved about a fabulous restaurant at the Grounds for Sculpture (a 35-acre public sculpture park) near Princeton, New Jersey. She loves everything about the place—the setting, the ambiance, the food, the service. I've never been there, but I have a hard time considering a place named Rat's an upscale dining experience. Yes, there's a literary back story to the name (a character from The Wind in the Willows), but I can't get past the fact that it's called Rat's.

I like clever, but the combination of rodents and food (with the exception of Ratatouille) doesn't appeal to me. Neither does the idea of eating in a garage. So it was with some hesitation that I made a reservation at Le Garage in Sausalito.

As we approached the bistro on a warm, clear Saturday night, the area was abuzz with activity. The restaurant itself is quite small, but the "garage" doors were open and numerous tables, diners and people waiting to dine were spread out on the patio area. (The mechanic's shirts with Le Garage stitched above the pocket that waiters wear are part of the "concept," I guess.) Situated in the Schoonmaker Point Marina, the view is charming—boats, including quite a few yachts, bobbing up and down in the water; no cars, no traffic noise. The ambiance was absolutely delightful, though I imagine it will be quite different during the winter (but there are plenty of heaters by the outdoor tables).

Open only a month for dinner, the place was packed. At least 10 people (besides the four of us) were enjoying the view, waiting to be seated. Co-owner Bruno Denis greeted us, noted our reservation and, very apologetically, told us it would be at least 15 minutes before we could be seated. In the meantime, Denis was zipping in-between tables, taking names, serving food, seating people.

Having a reservation pays off—two of us dropped in around 6:30 on a Tuesday evening, but were told (very regretfully) that we could not be seated because of the number of reserved tables. If you want to eat dinner here—and I don't know why you wouldn't—plan ahead (reservations are not accepted for lunch).

Upon being seated—outdoors— we were immediately asked what kind of water we'd like (we chose tap) and it was brought promptly. And then we sat. It was a lovely evening, we were enjoying each other's company, so we weren't upset, but we did try to signal someone—anyone—in order to get menus. In their defense, it was dark and the outside area is not well lit, so I don't think we were being ignored, just not noticed. It was some time before a waiter came to our table and, looking a bit surprised, asked if our order had already been taken. When we replied that we hadn't even seen a menu yet, he reacted as if a crime had been committed—he was quite annoyed and made no secret of it. Oh, the apologies. Denis came over to apologize, our waiter apologized.

And here's where Le Garage won us over. Because of—as they put it—our inexcusable wait, we would receive an appetizer on the house. But before the delicious little toasts with seared tuna, olives, asparagus tips, tomatoes and watercress appeared, we were served a flute of Charles de Fére champagne! Talk about knowing how to treat your customers...

So, we're a little biased at this point, inclined to judge everything favorably—plus we're feeling the bubbly. But the truth is, even without the "extras," the food is first-rate. Chef Olivier Souvestre—former executive chef at Chez Papa in the city—serves up tasty, unpretentious French fare with a bit of California thrown in. We enjoyed everything we tasted.

The wine list is small, but well-chosen, with a mix of—what else?—California and French wines.

We ordered three starters: the roasted tomato soup ($6), heirloom tomato and mozzarella salad ($9) and the Dungeness crab-stuffed squash blossoms ($12). Each was presented attractively—the bright red soup with its pesto swirl in a large white bowl on an angle, the heirloom tomatoes and mozzarella (essentially, a Caprese salad) in a small, neat—and gravity-defying—stack and the squash blossoms artfully arranged. The soup was a thick puree, bursting with earthy tomato flavor; the heirloom tomatoes were ripe and sweet, a flavorful contrast to the smooth and mild mozzarella (bathed in a light vinaigrette and basil leaves). As much as we liked these, they couldn't compare to the crab-stuffed squash blossoms. The crabmeat was predominant, yet the squash blossoms—fried in the lightest of batters, with no greasiness or oiliness to it—stood up to the stronger taste; it was an excellent combination. We were absolutely beyond impartial at this point.

Until our entrees were served (or weren't). Our appetizer plates and silverware were removed; clean silverware appeared. Then two entrees were set down. After waiting several minutes, we finally called a server over to ask about the other two dishes—which appeared shortly thereafter.

I can't fault them too much for this (remember, I'm feeling pretty good right now). The restaurant is relatively new, and they were slammed on this particular night. In six months, I might not be so charitable.

It was worth the wait. The Loch Duart salmon ($21) was sprinkled with sauce vierge (lemon, garlic, tomatoes, herbs, olive oil), topped with pea sprouts and surrounded with celery root puree. The fish was prepared just right, and the fusion of flavor and texture was quite good. The duck confit ($21) came with Sausalito Springs watercress, cannellini beans with bacon and an apple cider gastrique (classic French reduction sauce, fabulous with the duck).The duck was moist, not at all greasy, and the dish pronounced outstanding. The vegetarian tartelette ($16), a thin, light crust filled with goat cheese, organic trumpet royale mushrooms, roasted red peppers and caramelized onions, was a pleasing mélange of salty, earthy and sweet; it was served with piquant but lightly dressed mixed greens. The Berkshire pork chop ($23) with baby fennel, grilled lemon and smoked olive oil was excellent all around—perfectly cooked and complemented by the other flavors.

Not ready to end this pleasant evening, we ordered a couple of desserts. The warm tarte tatin ($7) was delicious—not too sweet, with a flaky pastry and flavorful apples; but the fondant au chocolate ($8), a rich, molten cake left us speechless it was so good.

Unfortunately, all good things must come to an end...although we didn't finish our meal until close to 11pm.

The setting, the food and the energy add up to an enjoyable encounter—far more than just a meal. For those "vacationing" at home this year (see Maureen Dixon's Home article, page 19)—and even if you're not—plan on a visit to Le Garage to experience France (and fine food) right here in Marin.

LE GARAGE 85 Liberty Ship Way #109, Sausalito; 415/332-5625. Open for lunch Monday through Friday 11:30am-2:30pm; dinner Tuesday through Saturday 5:30-9:30pm; brunch Saturday and Sunday 10:30am.