Send this story Print this story

Adjust text size

What's New

by Pat Fusco

Italian for beginners

MOLTO BENE. At Poggio, the handsome Sausalito trattoria, chef Peter McNee is using winter to his advantage, crafting foods in ancient ways. A recent dinner revealed what he has absorbed from long stays in Italy where he learned, ate and cooked, passionate about the cuisine. Dark pink coppa, a cold cut made from pork, was sliced from meat he slow-cured with a crust of fennel seeds in the style of northern Italy. I could hardly wait to sample burrata, knowing that it's made right in his restaurant kitchen. This cheese is a small globe of white mozzarella encompassing a center filled with bits of cheese melted in pure cream. When it is cut, a luxurious little stream oozes out to be caught up on toasted country bread. According to Italians, burrata is not to be served if it is more than 48 hours old, so the opportunity to experience it properly is rare in America. McNee partnered it with "melted leeks," soft-cooked mild strips of green, an apt touch. Among other finely tuned tastes were rotelli—plump, rosy handmade gnocchi of both white and sweet potatoes with a lush Fontina cheese sauce, and an individual casserole of trippa alla Fiorentina, tender tripe cooked in a deeply rich sauce capable of converting a less adventurous eater. Soon McNee's limoncello (infused with local Meyers) will be ready for an after-dinner sip or to be enjoyed as part of the bar's inventive cocktails. Soon, too, there will be a dinner to celebrate bollito misto, a meat-centric meal (both fresh and cured) perfect for cold weather. With his devotion to authentic food, this chef makes a visit to Poggio feel like a trip to the Italian countryside. Reservations: 415/332-7771; www.poggiotrattoria.com .

ORGANIC CARBO LOADING. It should come as no surprise to fans of Bubba's Diner in San Anselmo (566 San Anselmo Ave., 415/459-6862) that owner John Sarran is expanding his mission to champion organic foods. His diner's homestyle cooking attracts folks of all ages for an American menu made from locally produced, sustainable ingredients. Now he's the power behind Marin Pasta Works, turning out high-quality pasta from Giusto's organic durum semolina, organic brown eggs, olive oil and sea salt. This is formed into shapes both plain and fancy, from simple thread-like fine noodles to colorful flavored types—saffron, red wine, beet; vegetables and herbs used for green versions (verde viviente) are fresh and uncooked. Sarran explains that because the pasta is extruded through imported bronze dies it has a textured surface that "holds" sauces more readily. "I'm like a guy with a new baby," he says in his enthusiasm for the project. Right now the pasta is available for retail sales at the restaurant only. Individualized custom orders can be arranged. For details, check out www.marinpastaworks.com .

AND MORE HEALTHFUL CHOICES. She made a small Larkspur restaurant into an international destination for revolutionary dining. Now Kentfield's Roxanne Klein wants to bring her organic, raw creations into kitchens everywhere. Last week the founding chef of Roxanne's (where Picco now flourishes) introduced Roxanne's Fine Cuisine, a line of user-friendly, ready-to-eat foods that contain no dairy, eggs, gluten or refined sugars. These raw and "living" foods are never heated above 118 degrees, purportedly to preserve the natural elements (vitamins, enzymes) of their ingredients: nuts, fresh fruits and vegetables. They include signature items from her pioneer days such as pinwheel sandwiches (sliced wraps), three types of nutmilk "cheese," crackers and sprouted granola, and signature dessert items like triple layer chocolate cake and Rox Creme Ice Creams. The goods can be found in Marin at Andronico's, Paradise Foods, Mill Valley Market, Whole Foods and Woodlands Market. Production is based in Novato...Curious? Upcoming samplings: Feb. 1, Andronico's; Feb. 5, San Rafael Whole Foods; and Feb. 7, Paradise Foods. All tastings are 4:30-6:30pm. Information: 415/382-2840.

SWEET NOTHINGS. We all know what Feb. 14 means, and here are some suggestions for out-of-the-ordinary gifts from the heart that need to be ordered in advance to guarantee good Valentine vibes...I fell in love with BonBonBar sweets, beautifully made down south (as in Los Angeles). Nina Wanat creates small candy bars from high-quality chocolate, organic nuts and cream, using malt syrup instead of high fructose sweetener. They're like little cousins of old faves (think Kit Kat, for one). Her wee marshmallows (vanilla or passionfruit) are delicious on their own, even better in hot cocoa made from her mix. Check out the details—including holiday specials—at www.bonbonbar.com ...February 4 is the deadline for ordering Seduction, the negligee-clad Bordeaux-type blend based on Cabernet Sauvignon, from Napa's O'Brien Estates. Bart and Barbara O'Brien made a big publicity splash with their original sexy packaging (sheer red and silky, tied with ribbon) and its reputation flourishes. Order by the bottle or in an extravagant gift pack with chocolates and two designer glasses. Go to www.obrienestate.com .

CHEESE IT. Last year tickets sold out early, so I urge everyone to plan way ahead for the second annual Artisan Cheese Festival to be held Mar. 7-10 at the Sheraton Sonoma County-Petaluma Hotel. The weekend is filled with activities from a gala dinner to field trips, chef demos, many seminars and a huge all-day Marketplace (Mar. 9), where guests can taste and buy products from California's top cheesemakers. Events are priced separately. Check out all the details at www.artisancheesefestival.com .