The merits of eating breakfast to maintain good overall health have long been established. But what about the importance of taking a lunch break in pursuit of good "mental" health? Affirmed. And thus, we hereby decree the recently opened San Rafael restaurant "Savory Orient" our latest lunchtime asylum. Hallelujah! Or rather, "om."
Located on a downtown side street, comfortably distanced from Fourth Street's flutter and flurry--and the tirade of traffic noise and exhaust that assaults the senses on a daily basis--is a quiet, unassuming culinary den of Zen-like reprieve. Savory Orient is neither flashy nor forgettable. They're not out of the ordinary yet they manage to present highly nuanced cuisine that is creative, contemporary and wholly satisfying; it's Asian-fusion but without the pretension. And their dining room is equally demure yet exotic and tastefully tranquil.
Elegant bronze lotuses and ornate wood carvings adorn coral-colored walls. Bamboo plants enhance the intimate, 18-tabled space that's accompanied by the calming sound of a flowing Buddha fountain. Lighting is bright but not overbearing. Service is friendly, efficient and sincere. There's something effortless and graceful about the place--and it certainly comes through in the food.
The menu, at first glance, looks fairly basic--barely a half-dozen each of starters, curries and noodle dishes are offered, along with eight entrees--but is accompanied by innovative daily specials. One particular special appetizer that makes repeat appearances--and is said to be a traditional Thai dish that's been served for over 100 years--is the scrumptious spinach and prawn wrap, a delicately complex balance of crisp and succulent, tangy and sweet. Toasted coconut, cubed ginger, peanuts and tiny lime wedges join tender morsels of large shrimps, all wrapped in fresh romaine and spinach, alongside a jammy ginger-chili-plum sauce, presented artfully on a rectangular tray. All lunch specials are served with jasmine rice and small salad of organic mixed greens with an especially tasty, creamy miso dressing.
Regular entrees include Fiery Korean Beef ($11.95)--slightly smoky but not spicy, char-grilled, teriyaki-marinated skirt steak served on a beautiful red square plate with steamed sesame-spinach and jasmine rice. Also, Phuket Chicken ($8.95)--hearty chunks of chicken sauteed with fresh ginger, onion, red pepper and pineapple, suffused with a mirin-ginger sauce and sprinkled with cashew nuts--soothed the nerves with its sweet-savory harmony. Likewise, the veggies--broccoli, cabbage, carrots, red peppers and zucchini--served in a mild, red curry broth were an ambrosial comfort. Traditional Asian dishes are exalted by visually appealing presentations and layered flavors that are perfectly balanced yet distinctive and always fresh.
Organic green tea and a limited array of beer and wine are offered but the delicious, milkshake-like Thai ice tea ($2.50) is highly recommended. Desserts--or "Happy Endings," as they're called on the menu--are $4.95 and include a ginger creme brulee, banana lumpia with coconut ice cream and mango with sticky rice.
And come to think of it, certainly anything with "happy" in the title also has to be good for your sanity.
