When I wandered into Piccolo Teatro one afternoon a few weeks ago, I marveled that someone had the courage to open yet another Italian restaurant in Sausalito, especially tucked smack in the middle of Bridgeway between Angelino's and Poggio. When I mentioned this to the tall blonde woman tending the bar that day, she allowed as how each was actually quite different. The new cafe, she told me, is intended by owner Eric Zahra to be the kind of place where you can hang out any time of day; for a coffee break or take-out lunch; for a drink and a nosh; for breakfast, lunch or an early to late night dinner.I had already noticed the outdoor tables, and the fact that on warm days and evenings the front wall of windows opens completely, so that the small room feels as though it flows out onto the busy thoroughfare. On that day a family sat just inside, their 6-year-old dreamily twirling his fork in his spaghetti while his parents sipped coffee and mapped out the rest of their afternoon. I suddenly realized how perfectly this concept matched the locale. Think of the times when, as a tourist far from your hotel room for the day, you longed for a comfortable, scenic place to sit for as long as you liked, sip a drink and savor a light snack or a sandwich, and just watch the world go by. Then add in the fact that much of the food is so good that you might just wind up ordering a few small plates and staying for dinner. Such places are part of the fabric of life in Italy and most of Europe, but they're not so common here. And Sausalito, while a quintessential California tourist town, has more than a few local denizens who like to hang out at cafes and bars.
Remodeled after a Venetian-style osteria, the dark, old Scottish pub Paterson's has metamorphosed into a sleek, high-ceilinged wedge of a room, tapering to a niche at the back that showcases an icon of the Virgin and Child. The walls are hung with gilt mirrors, sconces and candelabra. At the entry there's a glass fronted case filled with sandwiches and other ready-to-eat treats, some of which look a bit congealed. But a snazzy backlit bar lines one wall, and the other features padded leather banquettes; scattered across the floor are high tables and low, topped with sparkly black and tan brindle granite and cool white elliptical plates, and there's a fireplace crackling companionably near the far end of the bar. The lights dim as the evening progresses. Lest those farthest from the fire feel a chill from the street, monogrammed green fleece lap robes are thoughtfully draped across the backs of the chairs. It's all effortlessly sophisticated and therefore feels casual and comfortable.
Chef Travis Flood's distinctive menu is layered in tiers more or less according to course order and size. First on the list are Cicchetti, small Venetian bites like the original Spanish tapas, meant to be savored with a drink or a glass of wine. All are priced at $2.50. I worked up my courage for Lardo Crostini; two golden, crackling thin slices of toast slicked with lard, then topped with tiny threads of pickled onion and a scattering of mint. Delicious! Even more tasty was a halved hard-boiled egg filled with a light tuna mousse flecked with minced red onion. I liked a crostini of butternut squash less well, though, finding the ribbon of pureed squash too sweet. Bread service with olive oil and balsamic vinegar, is not brought automatically to the table, but rather is listed with the cicchetti and costs the same.
Next are the Antipasti. We adored the warming Venetian Arborio rice soup ($7), like a brothy, creamy risotto studded with porcini mushrooms, pancetta and bits of bright vegetables. My fall salad ($7), a pretty drift of impeccably fresh greens laced with slender shards of red pepper, butternut squash and fennel, came lightly tossed in a refreshing citrus/verjus vinaigrette. On another day I tried goat cheese sformato, a cool mound of savory mousse ringed with arugula and tiny halved figs, all drizzled with balsamic reduction. This was a lovely combination, but once I had chomped my way through the three lacy crostini that came with it, I still had over half the mousse left to eat with my fork. A generous slab of slightly too firm rabbit terrine ($7) was still nicely set off by a froth of frisee and a sweet/tart dark currant compote.
Service at Piccolo Teatro, so named because the small space once housed a theatre, is friendly and very European. When my companion headed for the restroom, his napkin was whisked away and replaced, as were our unused pieces of cutlery between courses. Still or sparkling water is served from glass bottles, and the house wines can be ordered by the half or full carafe. In addition, there are half a dozen wines served by the glass; a full list of reasonably Italian and California wines; beer and ales by the bottle and on tap, and a full bar whose resident mixologist is in the process of inventing a whole array of signature cocktails and nightcaps. On one of our visits, Zahra was sitting at the next table, and asked us to sample a microbrew from Eel River that he was considering carrying.
All of the first and second course offerings are small plates. The main difference is that the primi (all $12) are pasta or polenta based, and the secondi lean more heavily on proteins. From the primi, we liked the mellow ragu of rabbit, served over spiral noodles, with hints of mustard and chervil. Another option, a chewy, garlicky tangle of local squid sautéed in garlic, olive oil, olives and tomatoes over crisp triangles of grilled white polenta, was generous enough for two to share.
A fillet of black cod ($16) silkily poached in extra virgin olive oil came on a bed of saffron infused farro, with grilled scallions and pools of bright pesto. Three meatballs of Angus beef and Berkshire pork; chunks of meat lightly bound with egg ($13) rested in a bowl of basil-scented fresh tomato sauce, with three tiny gnocci peeping out beneath them. The portion looked small, but turned out to be filling. A side order of dark greens sauteed with lemon, red chile pepper and garlic were soulful, wintry and bittersweet.
The two desserts (all $7) we tried were not memorable. Chestnut and vanilla semifredo with cherries soaked in Prosecco was way too sweet. The chocolate torta, really a chocolate cookie crust filled with quivering chocolate mousse, had the same problem, even though it had been described by our server as a slightly savory dessert punched with sea salt and olive oil.
Normally I visit a restaurant once, or occasionally twice, to review it. I went back to Piccolo Teatro three times, and would go again. It's quite simply a well designed and comfortable place to meet friends, to eat unusual combinations of food, and to while away a free afternoon or evening. Small plates make more sense if you want to graze for several hours. My vision has been expanded. Piccolo Teatro has helped me to understand that, just as it does in Italy, going out for Italian food can cover a wide range of possibilities.
