Anyone who loves dim sum still laments the demise of the North Sea Village, which vacated its big old barn of a building on the Sausalito waterfront a few years back. But new occupant Wellington's Wine Bar and Retail Shop, although still a work in progress with nary a Chinese dumpling in sight, is exciting enough to make me cast off my drab mourning clothes and start waving a pair of cheerleading pompoms. Owner Jeremy John and General Manager Julie Henderson are putting together a concept that feels to be quite new and brimming with possibilities.John, a Londoner who now lives in Marin, told me that he imagined a venue that would demystify wine for anyone who has ever felt intimidated by a restaurant wine list. He hoped to create something new and different from a tasting room; a spacious and relaxed environment with a wide range of wines from small, independent wineries offered at reasonable prices by the glass and bottle, and to take home as well. He saw a niche for a kind of hangout, more sophisticated than either a coffee shop or a bar, but comfortable and inviting enough to settle in on a sofa with a book and a glass of wine, or spend an hour playing chess with a view of the passing boats on the bay.
It took two years to obtain the required permits and remodel the space, but the results are a wonderful marriage of dockside casual and contemporary style. The big room, floored in polished planks, has been left open; hung with a few gauzy panels that separate the bar area from a kind of lounge that looks out over the deck to the water and the sailboats harbored there. A long brushed steel bar snakes along one goldenrod painted wall, and the retail counter lined with wine racks faces it on the opposite side, which is done in a somber grey green. The moldings and ceiling are painted in fresh white enamel, and all of the natural woodwork and furniture shines with a dark, antique patina. In the center are scattered a few high tables made from wine barrels, surrounded by cushioned, backless stools. Beyond the fluttering draperies, two areas with upholstered loveseats and coffee tables and a communal table with high backed wooden chairs in between offer a place to unwind. The aforementioned chess set is in view, along with Scrabble and some other games. One east-facing wall next to the doors opening onto to the deck is decorated with various sizes and hues of Wellington boots. Others sport colorful prints or photos. The room looks and feels simple, spacious and tasteful, with a touch of whimsy.
Julie Henderson, who is certified by the Court of Master Sommeliers, spends her days tasting wines from small producers, building up a catalog of bottles she considers to be exceptional and also responsive to customer requests. In addition to the wines poured by the glass, there is a Cellar List of reserve wines, which includes some very fine and rare vintages. She is especially proud of a 1982 Chateau Latour Bordeaux; the most expensive bottle on the list at $2500, which Henderson says is the lowest price that wine can be found for anywhere. Other well-priced cellared wines are 1990 and 1991 Chateau Mantelena from the Napa Valley for $100 a piece.
The wines poured are by the half or whole glass, half carafe or bottle, and listed on individual sheets affixed to miniature clipboards. Groups can take them off and pass them around so that more than one can be perused at once. There are 31 choices, including a house red and a white, four sparklers, and two dessert wines. You can also order from a selection of 11 beers and ales from small local and international breweries. All the bottles of wine are available to take home at a 10 percent reduction in price. Any combination of three wines is available in a flight of half glasses for $12. Oh, and all prices include tax. It's so refreshing to order something for $12, and actually get a bill for $12. And it makes Wellington's wines seem even more reasonable.
My companion opted for Taittinger La Francaise NV Brut sparkling wine ($7 or $13 for a half or full glass; $27 for a half bottle), which we both liked, although we found it fruitier than we were expecting it to be. His second half glass was of Starry Night 2006 Chardonnay from the Russian River Valley ($5, $9, $19 or $33; $30 retail) was as described: bold and oaky, with bright fruit flavors. His final choice, a Runquist 2005 "Salmon Vyd" Petite Sirah from Clarksburg in the Sierra Foothills ($6, $12, $26, $42: $38 retail), had been characterized as a favorite by our server. Fragrant and rich, it lingered with a deep softness not always found in heavier wines.
I went for all reds. The first was my favorite: Ancien 2006 "Toyon Farm" Pinot Noir from Carneros ($8, $16, $31, $54; $49 retail). This wine shone clear and bright, with anise and cherry flavors on the finish, and it smelled fabulous in the glass. I was less sanguine about my Domaine de la Demase 2006 Cote-du-Rhone ($5, $10, $24, $35: $31 retail; a blend of grenache, carignan and sirah that might have been perfectly fine on its own but suffered in comparison to the pinot noir. My third sampling was the yummy petite sirah described above.
Although a sign posted near the entrance says small plates are available, these are currently limited to a basket of crackers and nuts served with slices of cured meats and cheeses ($12). This is because the wine bar has no kitchen, and plans a partnership with In The Kitchen, a culinary academy slated to open within the next few months in another part of the building. The cheeses included a Quickes Traditional English Cheddar and an award winning sheep's milk Bleu Des Basques from France that was heavenly with the wine. The meats, a Fra Mani Salame Nostrano made in Berkeley and a spicy Salumeria Biellese Hot Soppressato from New York were served in thick, salty slices. They tasted great, but I thought the delicate wines called for more subtlety. We gobbled it all up anyway, and were grateful for the sustenance. I will very much look forward to more thoughtful pairings of wine and food in the future, when the culinary academy's kitchen is complete.
Also in the coming months there will be live music, which by law can't begin until the wine and beer license has been in place for six months, and several music groups are already scheduled for May. John, whose official title on his business card is Very Important Chap, plans to put outdoor tables on the deck during the summer months, with barbecues of oysters and skewered meats included in the small plates, and special wine pairing dinners starring local chefs. I really can't wait to watch the moon rise listening to music on that deck with a glass of wine in my hand. Let's all hope for some warm summer nights!
