As is often the case in the workplace--just like families--most of us don't get to choose our co-workers. I am fortunate, though, to work with a great group of people. For several years I was lucky enough to work side-by-side with a couple of women with whom I became close friends--on the job and off. Although they've both moved on, we stay in touch.The three of us met recently at the new--opened just eight weeks old--Citrus & Spice Thai-California eatery for lunch.
And I'm so glad we did.
Roadwork is going on in the section of Fourth Street, between D and E, where Citrus & Spice is located, and it's pretty loud. How were we going to hear each other over all that noise?
Just standing at the entrance, between the two large pots of colorful flowers, is an introduction to the calm, soothing atmosphere that awaits. Once inside, it feels as if you've entered another world. The first thing you notice in the dining room are the long, sheer, white panels hemmed with umber-colored silk or damask that divide the space. One long wall is pale yellow, the other a light orange. Layered mulberry and rice paper rectangles cover the light fixtures on these walls. Brocade panels conceal the service area in back, as well as a hallway. Large vessels with bamboo, some colorful orchids, a few wall hangings, make up the rest of the décor. It's clean, spare and very tasteful. The menu states it's "tasty Thai cuisineÉwith a modern twist." There are a few interesting fusion dishes listed, but this is most definitely an Asian restaurant.
The three of us were so engrossed in conversation, we weren't paying close attention to our surroundings. But the presentation of our meals did get our attention. We were each served a small salad on a dark, square plate. The salads tasted as good as they looked--mixed greens, orange and tomato slices artfully arranged, dressed with a citrusy vinaigrette. One of the dishes we ordered came with a small salad on the plate, so I'm not sure we were all actually entitled to a salad (but we sure didn't complain). The presentation of the entrees was impressive, as well, the composition and colors well thought out and attractively plated on large, white, square dishes. One of us ordered a special, the coconut soup with fresh spring roll ($9). It should have been called gigantic roll. The combination of cabbage, carrot slivers, cucumber slices, shrimp, mint and glass noodles was somewhat bland on its own, but the accompanying sweet and sour dipping sauce added the necessary kick. The coconut soup devotee deemed the large bowl quite tasty; she said the fish sauce announced its presence, just as it should.
The Thai peanut sauce with vegetables and tofu ($7.50) proffered crisp, bright green veggies cloaked--not drowned--in a sweet and spicy peanut sauce that was thick without being heavy. A mound of fragrant jasmine rice provided a pleasing contrast in both appearance and taste. For someone who has been on the road and eating on the go, this dish was "just what the doctor ordered." The roasted eggplant wrap ($7), with tomato, sautéed red bell pepper and mushrooms, covered with garlic goat cheese yogurt was everything one who loves these ingredients could hope for. The goat cheese yogurt added a tang and helped meld it all together, and the sweet and sour dipping sauce added a little oomph. We especially liked the pomegranate iced tea. Not too sweet, it not only tasted good, it was thirst quenching as well.
Dessert? It wasn't offered; our check was plunked down in a perfunctory manner before we could even ask.
I realized later that, although we paid attention to what we were eating, the situation and the setting colored our opinions. So I went back, but this time for takeout --to share with a few hearty eaters at the Sun.
Even without the serene setting, the food was, overall, quite good. According to one Sunster, who has been disappointed in the past by overly rice-laden Thai wraps, the curry chicken wrap ($7.50) proved a winner. Listed as "Thai-Indian style" on the menu, this definitely leaned in the Thai direction due to its accompanying peanut sauce--a pleasingly sweet side that held a sneaky spice in its aftertaste. The wrap's blend of onion, carrot shavings, tender chicken pieces and brown rice was spread throughout, lending a nice balance in flavor.
The sautéed chicken in garlic sauce ($8) fared almost as well. The garlic sauce was well-balanced--not excessively pungent, but unquestionably garlicky and peppery. The tender chicken pieces, mushrooms and caramelized onions, atop jasmine rice, were quite good. The only jarring note was the cilantro sprigs. When served in-house, maybe the cilantro is a garnish; for takeout, it was mixed in, but didn't mingle well with the other flavors. The accompanying sweet potato fries tasted pretty good, but would have been better served right away instead of hanging out for a while in the takeout box.
The yellow sweet potato curry with chicken ($7.50), a mild curry--but not without a buzz--with carrots, onions, red and green bell peppers, however, was delicious. The brown rice was $1 extra--well worth it. The earthy, nutty flavor mixed well with the curry. As with each dish we sampled, the chicken was high quality, the vegetables cooked just right and the serving generous.
Owners Weer Chaiwong and Cameron Moriguchi have created a little oasis in downtown San Rafael. The ambiance and presentation, at this point, make up for the bit of tweaking that will surely happen as the restaurant becomes more established and settles into a groove. I look forward to following Citrus & Spice's progress.
