I recall once ordering my favorite combo plate from the takeout window of Yank Sing in San Francisco for five straight days. I could not get enough of the sweet hot mustard, hearty chow mein, spicy Hunan eggplant, and two pieces of melt-in-your-mouth dim sum. To say that place was one of my very favorite spots is an understatement. And it was cheap--I could get a full lunch for $6. It was the best deal in town and I would gladly wait in a line that would inevitably spill out the door. So, when Yank Sing's general manager of 15 years decided to bring a bit of this same goodness to Marin, I thought I'd died and gone to heaven.When I set foot in Norman Louie's month-old restaurant located in Strawberry Village, I quickly realized two things. First is that Mill Valley is a far cry from the tucked away urban Stevenson alley that I would eagerly make my way to in downtown San Francisco. Second, this chic, modern establishment--with its dark wood and aubergine overtones--bared little (if any) resemblance to the Yank Sing I knew and loved. OK, so perhaps it was a bit naive to think I could possibly have a similar experience of eating exceptionally good Chinese food in a shopping mall in the 'burbs, but, butÉ
I do know that Strawberry Village is no ordinary mall. With tenants like Gordon Drysdale's sleek Pizza Antica and the upscale Woodlands Pet Food and Treats, there leaves little doubt in one's mind that this is one up-market shopping center. In fact the likelihood of eating lunch anywhere in Strawberry for $6 is, well, laughable. But, once I stopped making comparisons and left my expectations at the door of Harmony's serene and welcoming entryway, things began looking up. A very friendly hostess seated us at one of 15 or so tables and presented two pages of menus--one for "bites" and the other listed no less than 25 kinds of "free-style dim sum."
The room, though slightly dark, is handsome and has a soothing modern-Asian aesthetic. I sat back into a comfortable banquette and was looking forward to sipping a mystery house black tea, but none ever arrived. Six varieties are available at a charge of $2.50 per person, but no warm complimentary service here. With so much to choose from--ordering can be a little overwhelming--I wanted one of everything. We opted to start with the Landmark Chinese Chicken Salad ($9.50.) This airy mound of rice vermicelli, scallions, and shredded chicken did not disappoint. With the first bite, the familiar spicy mustard dressing I remembered so well came rushing back. Crushed almonds and cilantro added texture and pizzazz to the dish--we didn't leave even a shard of salad behind. Our attentive server informed us that the Harmony Signature Beef ($14) was probably the most popular item on the menu--so we tried it. Sweet and tender strips of flank steak arrived and couldn't have been a better pairing with a fragrant order of piping hot Jasmine rice ($2.) Despite my attempts to determine the ingredients of the sweet marinade that elevated this humble cut of beef to another level, all I could get was a stock answer from the server"it's a secret traditional family recipe" that is cooked at very high heat which gives it the charred, but not burned, flavor.
It seemed we had saved the best for last--the dim sum. And, I must say, after three plump, perfectly steamed little dumplings filled with locally grown, organic greens (collards, kale and chard) ($5.50) arrived at our table, I couldn't have been happier. Three dipping sauces (including the restaurant's signature hot mustard, soy sauce and another spicy chile option) were brought out. Fresh, dripping with mustard and tender, these neat little packets were delectable in every way--I wanted 15 more. The Harmony Spring Rolls (3 pieces, $5.50) were filled with avocado, sweet onions and sun dried tomatoes. It seemed a bit unorthodox, but they were light and crunchy and a refreshing change from the typical fillings of carrots, cucumber or shredded meat. After all, the tagline at the top of the menu does read: "a delicate balance between tradition and innovation." These definitely fit into the "innovation" category.
Along with its extensive restaurant offerings Harmony also has a take-out option. Only a small sampling of the menu items are available to go and are displayed in a case in an adjoining room. Most of the items are traditional Chinese dishes, including a chow mein ($4.99 per half pound), fried rice ($4.99 per half pound) and potstickers ($5 for three pieces). We sampled a few of these take-out items, including baby bok choy ($4.99 per half pound), chow mein and the potstickers. And although they were better than average, I would stick to the sit-down restaurant experience. For my money, I'd prefer to enjoy fresh dim sum and some of the more eclectic offerings in the restaurant's comfortable and inviting environs.
Just remember two things--it won't be an inexpensive experience, and it will be in a shopping center. But the fact that we have fresh, expertly prepared dim sum in Marin is, in itself, something to celebrate.
