North Larkspur, the neighborhood surrounding Magnolia Avenue just before it becomes College Avenue, doesn't have the cachet of "downtown" Larkspur. Yet. It's got one foot in a low-key, neighborhoody past, and one designer-clad foot (courtesy of the local upscale shoe store) in a more polished future. The area's restaurants are starting to reflect the change, too, with the addition of R'noh Thai in Marvin Gardens's former location. On the backside of a building that has a clothing shop streetside, R'noh Thai is perfectly situated to take advantage of the attractive view across Corte Madera Creek. Watching the walkers, joggers and happily bounding dogs on the path alongside the creek is a pleasant pastime while sitting on the spacious back deck. With a watchful eye, you can also spy birds quietly moving around in the long grasses nearby.
Inside, if the weather is inclement or if a bit more formality is in order, the split-level dining room is attractively unfussy, with terra cotta-colored walls, white linens and a few bowls of floating blossoms arranged here and there. The overall feeling is understated elegance.
That feeling is even carried over to the menus themselves, nicely bound multi-page affairs, filled with choice upon choice. There are a couple pages of lunchtime dishes, as well as another page of about half a dozen specials. After ordering, we enjoyed the sole occupancy of the deck for a while, but were soon part of a small crowd. Two women of indeterminate age animatedly discussed one's recent trip to Italy. A 60-ish couple spoke of philosophy and academics. And a 20-something couple stretched heads and shoulders across their table until they nearly touched, resembling amorous flamingos. I always think a mixed crowd is a good sign at a restaurant, and it held true here.
R'noh Thai's version of praram chicken ($9.95, one of the specials) married strips of chicken breast with pieces of steamed carrots, zucchini and cauliflower, all bathed in a sweet and mild peanut/curry/coconut sauce. It comes on a big white plate that's also laden with rice, iceberg lettuce and shredded carrot salad with a sweet, creamy dressing, and a choice of either egg roll (deep fried) or fresh roll (bound in a soft rice paper wrapper) with a spicy dip. Husband Gourmando's advice is to learn from his mistake and refrain from ordering a Thai iced tea along with the chicken--the tea made for one too many sweet things at the same sitting--and this is from a man with a serious sugar jones.
I hoped that the eggplant/chicken rice plate ($8.75) might be a good way to atone for recent vacation overindulgence. Would that all atonements were so pleasant. Chunks of slender eggplant, chicken breast and whole basil leaves glistened with a medium-spicy sauce, accompanied by rice and the iceberg lettuce salad. More words of advice: wait a few minutes before popping a chunk of seemingly innocent eggplant into your mouth. When still stove-hot, it will cause "pizza mouth" faster than a cooling glass of water can get there.
On a weekend morning, the back deck was more crowded and the wind was up, but it was just as nice. People watching was good, and only one yellow jacket flew by and, miraculously, kept going. Jessica, my daughter, remarked while eating that the yellow curry with chicken ($9.95) has assertive flavor, yet without heat--a nice trick. It arrives in a bowl filled with fragrant curry sauce, swimming with pieces of chicken breast, carrots and potatoes. As with the other specials, rice, salad and fried or fresh roll are accompaniments.
Pad Thai ($8.75) is loaded with prawns, squares of fried tofu, pieces of egg, green onions and a sprinkling of chopped peanuts. There's a ton of it, the delicate rice noodles and various proteins piled high on the plate and sauced with a slightly sweet concoction. Iceberg salad, the ubiquitous side, makes a good textural counterpoint.
Waitstaff are attentive and food arrives swiftly, so a quick meal is possible. But the deck is an inviting atmosphere, and it's easy to stretch things out if a leisurely lunch is what's wanted. Owned by Joe Watta, his wife Kee Bomkump, and partner Nok Pangsak, R'noh Thai (it means "rising sun") has already attracted a following. Previously, Watta was a partner at Thep Lela in Mill Valley, and that experience serves him well here. Eating at R'noh Thai is a smooth experience, from the friendly service to the well-paced kitchen, to the comfortable seating. Your only concern will be how to choose from an abundant menu where everything looks good.
