A little bit of "old" Marin history is still in evidence on the west side of San Rafael, where Cafe Arrivederci smoothly blends the old and the new together. Years ago, the building housed West End Villa, a popular central Marin restaurant and watering hole; before that, the triangular property held San Rafael's westernmost train station, with the tracks continuing on to "The Hub" in San Anselmo. Today, Cafe Arrivederci's exterior retains some of the old feel, with its red brick and wood-shingled walls; inside, though, contemporary is the name of the game, with light walls, track lighting strung on cables across the ceiling, and a variety of art pieces displayed around the rooms. Tables set with linens fill the airy and large front room. A smaller back room is more private, but lacks the fun people-watching and eavesdropping opportunities of the front (we overheard a mom filling her dad in on the latest athletic derring-do's of his granddaughter, and on our other side a group of eight all laughed heartily even though the joke teller in the group flubbed his punch line). But wherever you're seated, the acoustics are good--people filled the rooms both times we visited, though it didn't seem at all noisy and we never had to raise our voices or strain to hear.
Service is good, and I was both charmed and amused by the young man who, as he delivered our plates on both days, said "Buon appetito, you guys." Again, the traditional and the new.
Which pretty well describes the menu, too. Divided into antipasti, paste, pizza, panini, insalate and secondi, it offers everything from an "Arrivederci burger" ($7.25) to full-on big-plate meals such as "scaloppine funghi" ($13.95, veal scaloppine with mushrooms). My friend Roger, who eats pizza often, was a little disappointed in the pizza rustica ($9.95); the menu mentioned Italian sausage, mushrooms and feta cheese, but ours had only a few nubbins of feta. It was perfectly good otherwise, with lots of mozzarella and slices of tomato.
Calamari fritti ($8.95) is lightly breaded, very tender and not greasy in the slightest. Its delicate flavor sets off nicely against either cocktail sauce or lemon, both of which accompany the seafood. Our plate had only calamari rings and no "feet," which was too bad, because they look so interesting on the plate. Sweet potato ravioli ($11.95) was a daily special, and a pretty one. Three 3-by-4-inch raviolis were arranged across an oblong plate; with green bottoms (spinach pasta), bright orange filling and a plain top, they made a "tri-colore" presentation. Nestled in a shallow pool of marsala cream sauce and sprinkled with lightly toasted almond slices, the tender pasta showcased how the right combination of flavors can elevate something like the humble sweet potato into an elegant entree.
Seafood salad ($12.95) also has simple ingredients that add up to more than the sum of its parts. Big scallops and prawns that have been marinated in mild vinaigrette get sautéed, then bedded on mixed greens dressed with more vinaigrette. The slightly caramelized edges and silky interiors of the scallops told me that they had been sautéed quickly over a good, hot fire and the prawns had picked up depth of flavor from the marinade--they do a nice job with seafood here.
There are almost as many recipes for minestrone as there are stars in the sky. Cafe Arrivederci's version ($3.50/cup, $5/bowl) is light rather than hearty. Clear broth with only a hint of tomato contains lots of carrots, celery and zucchini, some spinach or chard, lots of noodles and not very many beans--only two in my cup. The delicate flavor benefits from a sprinkling of Parmesan offered by the waiter.
Panino con pollo ($8.95) won me over with its tender, juicy grilled chicken breast that really tastes grilled. Served on what looks like onion focaccia without the holes, it's topped with slices of sautéed onion and peppers, both red and green. A little messy to eat, but worth it. The French fries alongside prompted hubby Gourmando to ask, "Are French fries either 'good' or 'bad,' or are there levels in-between?" Good question. I say golden and crisp on the outside, tender and steamy on the inside makes for a good fry. Greasy, soggy, limp--forget it. You get the good ones here.
You can also get drinks from the full bar, as well as a selection of Italian and California wines, priced between $20 and $65/bottle, with most hovering in the mid-$20s to low-$30s. Weather permitting, you can have those drinks, as well as a meal, on the patio where half a dozen or so tables are surrounded by trees and latticed fencing.
Things are hopping at lunchtime here; it's possible that the loss of Salute turned into a gain for Cafe Arrivederci. But no matter the reason, if well-prepared, traditional Italian food makes you sigh "Mamma mia"--none of that edgy, fusion stuff here--Cafe Arrivederci's your place.
