If you look at a map of the world, you might be surprised to learn that Italy is actually north of San Francisco, latitudinally speaking, falling for the most part between the 40th and 45th parallels. We're just a hair above the 37th parallel, south of everything but Sicily. Who knew? I learned this interesting fact while looking up the exact location on the Tuscan coast of Livorno, home city to David Cerretini, executive chef and managing partner of Cacciucco in Sausalito, open since last October featuring traditional Livornese cooking.
Like San Francisco, Livorno is a port city, so seafood dishes abound. The restaurant is named for cacciuccata, ($24.50) a traditional Livornese seafood stew, first cousin to our famous cioppino. Made from cuttlefish, mussels, clams, scampi, octopus and the catch of the day bathed in a fresh tomato sauce with a hint of herbs and heat, the stew is served in a bowl over garlic toasts that soak up the juices.
But the menu at Cacciucco is by no means limited to foods from the sea. On a recent evening, over glasses of Prosecco di Valdobbiadene, La Riva dei Frati ($6.50 the glass; $26 the bottle), which tasted of pears, honey and lemon, we perused the antipasti sections of the regular menu as well as the card of nightly specials.
Tronchetti al prosciutto sounded, and was, irresistible: four splendid little cigars of whisper-thin prosciutto rolled around a creamy filling of chopped walnuts, shredded radicchio and mascarpone cheese. Served against a verdant sheaf of arugula leaves accented with white truffle oil that set them off perfectly, the tender little rolls literally melted in our mouths.
Ordering a course from the list of pastas seemed somehow required. We decided to split the special ravioli di granchio al sapori di mare ($19.75). Although the saffron and basil cream sauce was divine, the fresh crab and ricotta stuffed pillows were simply too al dente. They were covered with a saut of oysters and calamari ringed by black mussels in the shell. The oysters tasted and felt muddy, and none of the seafood flavors really enhanced the ravioli, which would have been smashing cooked just a little longer, and napped with just the sauce and perhaps a sprinkling of parsley.
But a crisp, creamy and garlicky insalate Cesar ($6), also split, served to cleanse our palates. Portions at this point had been so ample that we probably could have stopped there, but we had ordered entr es. So, like the guests at a Tuscan wedding, we took deep breaths and pressed on.
And were very glad we did. Costolette al Sangiovese ($23.50), juicy lamb loin chops grilled, scented with rosemary and sauced in a fig and red wine reduction, were delightful; sweet but not overly so, and accompanied by a cloud of world-class mashed potatoes and a few vegetables lightly tossed in olive oil and herbs.
I had been seduced by the white wine and thyme sauce described on the menu with maialino al prosciutto ($15.95), a generous, roasted medallion of pork, covered with several thin layers of prosciutto di Parma and topped with melted fresh mozzarella. I was not disappointed: This dish tasted exactly as I wanted it to. I loved the way the delicate blanket of salty ham and soft cheese kept the pork so moist and flavorful, and the hint of thyme was both earthy and enticing. The same lusciously light and smooth potatoes and tender-crisp vegetables served as garnish.
With our entr es we had asked our server for wine recommendations. We both loved the glass of 2002 Super Tuscan Badiola, Castelli di Fonterutoli ($7.25 the glass, $29 the bottle) he suggested with the lamb. But we found the 2000 Ramitello Riserva, Di Majo Norante (also $7.25 the glass, $29 the bottle) recommended for the pork a bit flat in both nose and taste. Our server observed my nearly empty glass, and noted that we had managed to take a few too many experimental sips to send it back. We agreed, but next time I'll remember to taste the wine before ordering a glass, as I saw other patrons do.
Caccuicco's wine cellar is made entirely of Italian bottles, in prices ranging from $22 to $95. There's also a reserve list of special bottles ranging from $52 for a white Re Manfredi to $250 for a red 2000 Sassicaia Tenuta San Guido.
Wines are displayed and poured at the bar, all dark wood with a few stools against the back wall. Two of the remaining walls are glass, although only a tiny slice of bay is visible from a very few tables. But the windows open into the trees, which will be refreshing as the weather mellows and the evenings grow longer. The remaining decor is simple, with warm ochre walls set off by black and white photos of Livorno. The room does get noisy, though. Perhaps tablecloths on the dark wood tables would absorb some of the din.
Cacciucco also specializes in game dishes, dear to the Livornese heart and palate. On a reconnaissance trip one earlier evening, I had ordered the special coniglio arrosto al Chianti ($24.50), half of a wild rabbit roasted in a Chianti-rosemary reduction sauce with mushrooms and grilled polenta. Rabbit is so satisfying when roasted as this one was, allowing the meat to hold its own flavor and texture, which I think falls exactly between those of lamb and chicken.
For dessert we chose torta della Nonna ($6.25), a copious wedge of buttery pine nut and custard pastry surrounded by rosettes of whipped cream that we probably would have deemed fabulous had we not also tried the panna cotta briaa ($5.75). Not a traditional rendering, the smooth vanilla-scented mousse topped with a whiskey and honey syrup and served in a wineglass was one of those desserts that dreams are made on. Our spoons kept dipping in, our throats kept cooing in delight. Briaa means drunken; be forewarned. Because, unless it was the complimentary cordial glass of port our server brought around to finish off our evening, we walked out into the night air feeling just a little tipsy.
It's always a delight to be pleasantly surprised by a new restaurant. From the warm greeting we received upon entry, through the impeccable and efficient service, to the small hospitable touches throughout the evening and the very good food we were served, Cacciucco far exceeded my expectations.
I also liked that the menu is designed with some budgetary flex. You can order a multicourse meal for a special evening, or stop in for a salad, pizza or pasta dish on the way home from work. Seven of the nine entrees come in under $20, and all are liberal in portion. There's live entertainment on weekend evenings, as well. With its quiet location on the south end of Bridgeway, beyond the waterfront and just before the road winds uphill to the freeway, Cacciucco could turn into a haven for locals looking for a great meal when the street down below is teeming with tourists.
