So, here we are, not even two weeks into 2008, and I'm already whining about New Year's resolutions. Rather than make a list of New Year's resolutions--which will only depress me in a couple of months when I realize that I'm losing the battle to be more patient, whine less, exercise more, etc.--I am committed to taking better care of myself. That's right. Now, I don't mean that in the way Al Franken did when he declared the 1980s to be the Al Franken Decade; rather, I will continue to improve my health habits, including what I eat.So my quest--along with that of many other like-minded Marinites--is to find places to dine that have good food and keep me moving in the right direction, health-wise.
With that in mind, I ventured into Café Lotus in Fairfax. It was a welcome respite on a rainy, winter night--warm and filled with appetizing aromas.
Surinder (Paul) Sroa, who opened the tasteful (in every sense) Lotus Cuisine of India in San Rafael 10 years ago, launched Café Lotus in Fairfax last spring, replacing the relatively short-lived Café Tandoori, a primarily takeout spot offering Indian dishes of, unfortunately, varying quality.
But all that has changed.
And it's not just the food. The Formica-topped tables have been replaced with dark wood tables; cloth-covered banquettes line one wall. Actual menus are presented to diners, and real cutlery, cloth napkins and glasses are used. Though the refrigerated beverage case still faces out to the dining area, and a steady stream of customers files in to pick up takeout orders, it's still possible to enjoy a dining experience here.
But, of course, it really is about the food--which is in keeping with my non-resolution resolve. The fare is fresh, much of it prepared with organic ingredients; the kitchen staff doesn't take shortcuts.
The much smaller space limits the menu, so fewer offerings are available here than at the café's upscale sibling. Not that it matters. You'll leave satisfied. No soups, salads or pappadum--but there's still plenty to choose from. We opted for a mix of seafood, poultry and vegetarian plates (there are several lamb offerings, as well); non-meat eaters will find an ample selection of vegetarian and vegan appetizers and curries.
I was impressed by the wine selection, which includes the estimable Navarro Vineyards, a very small winery on Route 128 in Philo. The winery has a very limited distribution, so it's a real treat to enjoy a glass of their gewŸrztraminer or sauvignon blanc--which are great choices for Indian cuisine--with your meal. A selection of domestic and Indian beers is also available. And the chai and lassis are made from organic ingredients.
At first glance, it may seem a little on the steep side for takeout--the bulk of the café's business--but it's easy to eat quite heartily for very little. And keep in mind, one of the components of healthy eating is paying attention to portion size--which can be difficult for those who were brought up to "clean their plates."
The vegetable pakora ($3.99), fried fritters or pancakes, are a pleasing mélange of baby spinach, baby potatoes and cauliflower in a garbanzo flour batter. (Oh, well, there goes the non-resolution--eating fried foods.) These little goodies don't sit in the oil for long, though, because they're not greasy, and the vegetables are not in the least bit mushy. Several chat (also spelled chaat) choices are offered. Of these savory small dishes we tried bhel puri ($4.99). It was hard not to fill up on this snack-type combination of crisped wheat (very similar to Rice Krispies, actually) potatoes, garbanzo beans, mint sauce, tamarind, cilantro and toasted cumin. Think Chex mix, only with a little bite and infinitely tastier.
It may not be the traditional clay oven, heated by wood or charcoal, but this little eatery actually has a tandoor, albeit stainless steel. Breads are baked in the tandoor, and meats and fish are cooked in it as well, all at a very high heat. A shelf of naan dough rounds rests in a case at the front of the kitchen area, each plump disk waiting to be slapped onto the side of the tandoor, resulting in that warm, wonderful bread. Unable to decide among all the breads--garlic naan, onion naan, pesto naan, keema naan (stuffed with spiced, ground lamb) and several vegetable-stuffed paratha--we chose plain naan ($2.25) and plain paratha ($2.95). While I'm sure the others are delicious, the basic breads are perfect for scooping up bits of food and sopping up gravies.
And you don't want to stint on the breads here, because there's a lot of sauce to soak up. Actually, one of our minor complaints (and there were only two, and one was sort of our fault) was the amount of chicken compared to sauce in one of our dishes. I am not going to complain about the number of tiger prawns in the prawn curry, because at $11.95, our most expensive dish, I didn't expect more than I got (about six). But there was just way too much of tikka curry sauce for the few pieces of organic boneless chicken breast in the chicken tikka masala ($10.95).However, it should be noted that both of these dishes were very tasty. The prawns were cooked perfectly, the chicken tender and flavorful. And the accompanying sauces were well-spiced and substantial--and they tasted great permeating the naan and paratha.
We also ordered the dal makhni ($8.95), a very generous portion of whole lentils cooked in a blend of spices--aromatic, hearty and relatively mild. There was enough left over for a satisfying lunch the following day.
The raita ($2.25), whipped yogurt with opo squash, roasted cumin and black salt, was an ideal foil for the typical Indian spices, though none of our dishes was particularly hot. And there was plenty of the raita to go around.
Our only other gripe was that we should have ordered more rice from the get-go. The brown rice ($2.50), described on the menu as eco-friendly brown rice with peas, was good--light, without that starchy crunch brown rice often has. It was an excellent complement to some of the more pungent dishes. Basmati rice ($2.25) with peas is the other option.
Although tempted by the dessert offerings, we were sated. But they looked pretty good, and the price is right as well: $2.50 for kulfi, traditional Indian ice cream; and $2.99 for both gulab jamun, fried balls of dough and milk with honey syrup, and kheer, organic rice pudding.
There are places around that are faster and cheaper, but Café Lotus is a great find for those who desire flavorful, relatively inexpensive meals prepared with high-quality ingredients. And that goes a long way for the health of both body and mind.
