The silvery décor at Bistro 330, uniquely sophisticated for a Marin County restaurant, held up well during the flooding. Roxanne Fakhouri, who owns Bistro 330 with her partner Albert Malka, told me that within 20 minutes of her post-flood arrival to survey the damage, customers started showing up with buckets, mops and squeegees to pitch in with clean-up. After a daylong group effort, she and Albert were able to serve dinner that very night. Upon my arrival, Albert escorted me decorously to my table. I ordered croquettes de crabe ($13) as an appetizer, thinking I might take half of the serving home to my absent companion. But their deliciously creamy centers and crisp exteriors were so good that they vanished, along with their accompanying lemony slaw, before I remembered that plan.
Having ordered duck ($19) as an entrée, I asked Albert to recommend a wine that would complement both the crab and the poultry. He brought me a ruby-colored glass of Cartlidge & Brown Pinot Noir ($7). When I wondered aloud at his not having chosen a French wine, he executed one of those famous Gallic shrugs and responded that he loves California wines. Bistro 330's brief wine list includes both<0x2014>and even a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. All wines are served by the glass, and no bottle costs more than $36. There are also house red and white labels served in half and full liter carafes for $12 and $21, respectively.
Throughout my dinner, I watched him work the room. He seemed to know most of his customers by name, and although he was busy, each interaction was sparked with humor and bonhomie. Roxanne told me later that their little bistro, now open for five years, has a fan base of regulars who come from as far away as San Francisco and Napa.
My rosy slices of duck breast came fanned around a puddle of smoothly mashed potatoes and buttered vegetables. Napped in a slightly sweet jus reduction spiked with lavender, it was simply superb.
As always when they are offered, I chose profiteroles ($7) for dessert. If you count up what I had eaten so far, you might think, as I did, that I would not be able to finish the generous portion of crisp, tender puffs filled with vanilla ice cream and drenched in chocolate. But we would both have been wrong.
I also took home a serving of apple crunch (also $7) to my hapless friend. Even spooned from a Styrofoam cup, with the crme anglaise I had asked to substitute for ice cream already absorbed by the streusel topping, it was comforting and filling.
