Still mourning the demise of the Lark Creek Inn? Well, plenty of others aren't, judging by the crowd at "The Tavern at Lark Creek" on a recent Wednesday evening. The elegant Lark Creek Inn, an ideal fit in the historic Victorian house, was, for most of us, a special occasion restaurant. Unfortunately, these days, not enough people are celebrating the way they used to. The new kid on the block is far more relaxed and casual--and much less expensive. Happily, the service remains exceedingly professional, attentive and accommodating.
The interior has changed little. Brick-orange walls and modern lighting, along with the high-backed chairs and oak tables, a long, marble-topped communal table and sturdy ceramic dishware, transform the mood somewhat. But the high ceiling and large skylight impart an airy, un-tavern-like ambiance. The bill of fare, though, is a different story.
Chef Randy Lewis--whose accolades are too numerous to list here--has designed an ambitious menu that presents a wide range of choices. And "every" offering is under $15. From "comfort food" with a twist--mac croquettes with cheese fondue ($7.95)--to more sophisticated pub grub--a corned beef sandwich on rye ($12.95) with housemade corned beef and fennel "kraut," and a burger ($7.95) made from chuck ground in-house--to shrimp and grits ($14.95)--a nod to the chef's New Orleans background--as well as pastas, meat, seafood, poultry and several vegetarian and vegan selections--Lewis demonstrates both creativity and skill as he adds his own imprint to many standard dishes. One thing he has continued is the commitment to using fresh, local, seasonal ingredients. And, it's also important to note that the lower prices do not mean minuscule portions.
In addition to a number of starters, soups and salads, are nibbles and bites and things with drinks. (Oh, drinks: a full bar, of course, with standard and specialty cocktails; and a good selection of wines from California as well as Europe, South America, Australia and New Zealand.). While we studied the menu, we whet our appetites with a "nibble" of smooth, creamy Bellwether Farms ricotta cheese on grilled bread ($3.95). In lieu of a plate or basket of bread, we were served wonderful warm, yeasty housemade Parker House rolls with whipped butter.
The menu is full of appealing options, which made ordering a tough task. But we persevered and starated with the chilled wood-oven roasted potato and leek soup with housemade mascarpone ($6.95). The bowl of light green, semi-pureed (just a little bit of texture to it) soup with a dollop of mascarpone surrounded by what we were told were bits of lavender, but actually looked--and tasted--like chive flowers, was light, yet very satisfying...just the thing for a summer evening.
Of the various salads, which include a salad of fennel, apricots, greens, mint and ricotta salata ($8.95/$13.25) and baby lettuces with a Champagne shallot vinaigrette ($8.50/$12.95)--and name the source of the ingredients--we went for the watermelon and cherry tomato salad with chevre, cracklings, lime and basil ($8.75). Though it looked much too nice to disturb, we dug in anyway. The melon and tomatoes, just about at the peak of their season, were juicy and full of flavor--this was about as close to perfect as a salad could be.
The colorful pasta "paella-style"--chicken confit, Spanish chorizo and fresh chickpeas "so" good) in a smoked paprika saffron sauce ($12.75)--was presented in a small cast-iron dish on a square plate. Overall, the dish was delicious, though surprisingly, the confit was a bit dry.
The pan-seared rainbow trout with a shaved asparagus and hazelnut salad, capers and hazelnut sauce--among the more expensive items at $14.75--was excellent. The fish was fresh and tasty, but the shaved asparagus was the most delicious I've ever had. Being sliced, or shaved, extremely thin improved the texture and seemed to bring out more flavor.
The beloved butterscotch pudding is still on the dessert menu, though we chose the warm seasonal fruit galette (buttery pastry, peaches, blueberries and berry sauce) with a small, but just right, scoop of vanilla bean ice cream ($6.95)--an ambrosial summertime dessert. Like the salad, the fruit was perfect. We ordered coffee, too ($2.95/$5.95 for a press-pot). Usually, restaurant coffee is pretty much coffee--but not here. Our server brought the press pot to the table, came back in two minutes and with a sure and steady hand, pressed coffee that was so rich and flavorful, I didn't care if it kept me up all night.
One downside: With the dining areas and bar filled to capacity, the restaurant was "loud"; the outdoor patio is probably more conducive to conversation. Rugs and sound-dampening panels will be installed soon to cut down the noise level.
A lively atmosphere and great food at reasonable prices make this Tavern well worth visiting. And you don't have to wait--in fact, you shouldn't--for a special occasion.
