One of the things I remember so well from a college semester spent in the UK was the pubs. Of course the hand-pumped carbon-dioxide-free ales were memorable, but even more foreign and unforgettable was the notion of entire families from infants to grandparents gathering at these warm, inviting establishments to enjoy a pint (not the infants) and a Ploughman's or a steak and kidney pie. It was so utterly at odds with our American version of a bar with its loud jukeboxes and rowdy college-age kids. Finnegan's Marin reminded me of the more civilized version abroad.Old Town Novato with its spiffy clean streets and Victorian building facades has an oddly suburban Stepford Wife quality about it. But once inside Finnegan's (located on Grant Avenue in the space occupied for many years by the Bit O' Honey bar) there is nothing disingenuous about this Irish pub. A smiling hostess greeted us and gestured to follow her as she led us to one of the eight or so booths that line the wall adjacent to a large mahogany wood stained bar. On this recent Friday night visit--the place was packed. Folks lined the bar and all of the tables and booths were filled. A children's menu was produced along with crayons for our 5 year old. The noise levels were high, but a genuine conviviality permeated the large space and (to my delight) children, parents, and folks just in for an after-work drink were all gathered together at this decidedly community minded bar and restaurant. "We really see ourselves as American bar and grill meets Irish pub," says co-owner and general manager Mark Edwards, who also runs Kitchen across the street with longtime Novato resident and co-owner Henry Hautau. "We opened Finnegan's because we really wanted a place to go after Kitchen closed--there wasn't anywhere like that in Novato," explained Edwards who offers a bar menu of sandwiches and burgers as late as 11pm on Friday and Saturday nights.
Once comfortably ensconced in a cozy booth, a waitress who might have been even friendlier and more accommodating than the hostess before her, took our drink orders--a Brother David's Double Abbey-Style Ale ($4 for 16 ounce pint or $6 for 23) and a signature Bitter Blonde--two of the eight beers offered on tap or draught. Both were superb and very different. The Belgian-style ale is almost chewable with a deep fruity flavor and chocolate overtones. Finnegan's Bitter Blonde was a better choice to enjoy with food, with its long hoppy finish and slightly mild, honey flavor.
From the look of the menu it's apparent the owners are trying to appeal to a broad audience, but some dishes seem out of place on the mostly pub-style menu. For example, I wasn't sure why an appetizer of Black and White Sesame Crusted Tuna ($9) would be offered at a place like this--I decided to give it a try. A small mound of mixed greens arrived encircled by about five bite-size pieces of sushi-grade Ahi tuna. A light drizzle of wasabi aioli accompanied each bite and a citrus vinaigrette covered the greens. It was perfectly fine, if a tad meager. I was still having a hard time with the disconnect between this upscale California fare alongside a sausage sampler and a Ploughman's cheese plate. But by the time I tasted the generously portioned fried calamari ($10) with two exceptionally good aiolis of tomato and tarragon and fennel and lemon--I decided the kitchen knew what it was doing. The food choices were beginning to make a little more sense--kind of Cal-Med meets Irish American pub. Only in Marin. The fact that aioli is offered in at least three appetizers should have clued me in earlier to the fact that this was not your average pub. Next time I'll be sure to try the garlic mussels in white wine ($8) and the house cured salmon rosettes ($10)
Dinner entrees at Finnegan's are more, well, expected. A 6 and 8 ounce offerings of fish and chips ($13, $15) are served in a basket atop waffle style fries. The fish--a flakey Atlantic cod is deep fried in a Guinness beer batter and, though not very flavorful, the dish is satisfying--not greasy and served with a marvelous house made sweet pickle tartar sauce. The sauces at this establishment are the give away that chef Lance Taylor knows his ingredients--and, more importantly, knows how to use them together for better-than-average results. A grilled-lamb shepherd's pie ($22) features a dramatic presentation of four lamb T-bones, a sweet corn succotash, mashed potatoes and a tomato-rosemary relish. This innovative interpretation is the definition of comfort food. Creamy potatoes combined with the sweet corn pair beautifully with the medium-rare lamb. At half the price of the lamb, the burger ($10) (made with a half-pound of prime grade A beef) is served on both the lunch and dinner menus and comes with shoestring potatoes and plenty of cheese choices. According to our server, it is the most popular item on the menu.
As for dessert, my son's eyes gleamed at the very large serving (three scoops) of vanilla ice cream that arrived drizzled with chocolate sauce. He was also quite pleased with his corkscrew pasta cooked well-past al dente--just the way he likes it and doused in just the right amount of butter. I was tempted to try one of the desserts-- the menu offers apple pie, a chocolate tort and more--but I was dismayed to learn they were not prepared in-house. I also thought about another Belgian-style ale from the intriguing and extensive beer-wine-cocktail list, but opted instead to help my son with his ice cream.
If I lived in Novato, Finnegan's is the kind of place I would go to regularly. The family-friendly vibe, good service and well-prepared food make it an easy and inviting choice. You can bet with the St. Patrick's Day holiday coming up there will be plenty of folks enjoying a pint or two here--and, if the weather is good, maybe even out on the 25 seat back patio.
