Some of us just don't get excited about celebrating birthdays anymore. What was once a much anticipated commemoration of one's entry into the world can become a time for ruminating over mortality, what-ifs, etc. That does change again after a certain age, when each day lived is a gift, and there's a certain pride in having attained a ripe old age. I'm not old enough for that.But, I digress. The point is, I wasn't excited about my birthday and I did not want to be treated to an upscale dining "experience." In the mood for a meal filled with merriment, not refinement, I chose El Encanto in Novato, which opened last October, for this family celebration.
Now I'm no food snob, but even I wondered why anyone would open a quality Mexican restaurant and bar in what has been a hexed location. The struggling Lyon's chain closed its Novato restaurant a number of years ago. Lot 37 tried to make a go of it here, with a more sophisticated cuisine; it didn't last long. The space morphed into one Chinese eatery and then another. So what made Hector and Fabi Gomez and Raymundo Ayala think they could do better? Vision and patience.
According to Hector Gomez, the redesign and remodel took more than a year to complete. All remnants of a chain restaurant are gone. The Gomezes and Ayala did it right: brick-colored walls and tiles, a mélange of lighting--mica lamps, wire-wrapped hanging lights and star-shaped fixtures--a mix of tables and booths. The large, comfy chairs have a rustic look, with slats that appear to be from palm trees. It's warm and inviting, as is the greeting upon walking in.
Margarita drinkers, take note: In addition to the 15 or so margaritas, El Encanto has close to 100 different tequilas. Those serious about tequila can order tequila flights and after-dinner fine tequilas. Taking the easy way out, we ordered the house margarita ($6.95), served in a large, thick-stemmed martini glass; we asked for blended, with salt, but were served on the rocks, no salt. OK, it was pretty busy, no big deal. Not into mixed drinks? There's plenty to choose from: close to 25 beers, domestic, imported and draft, wine and, of course, non-alcoholic beverages.
We decided to start with the Encanto Sampler ($12.95) to whet our appetites. Unfortunately, the Appetizer Sampler was set down in front of us, not the Encanto. This was the second goof. Our server was apologetic, took away the wrong dish and came by a few times to let us know the right one was on the way. It did arrive, and, for the most part, it was worth the wait. The jalape–o poppers, chicken taquitos, nachos, quesadillas and mini chicken chimichangas appealed to the whole group. The poppers were crisp, with melted cheese; the taquitos, crisp-fried, with shredded chicken. The shredded chicken in both the taquitos and the mini chimichangas was just that--not minced, not out of a can, not tough, not dry, but cooked just right. We especially liked the mini chimichangas, stuffed with the aforementioned chicken, sour cream, guacamole--a couple of bites, just enough to satisfy a hankering for fried-food.
The cuisine is primarily from Jalisco and Michoacan, on the Pacific Coast. The wide-ranging menu features many familiar dishes, including tacos, tamales, flautas, burritos, enchiladas and fajitas in all manner of choices--pork, steak, chicken, shrimp, fish--along with the regional specialties. Our server's recommendations were much appreciated. We also liked that three of us were able to enjoy half of our meal the next day. With the accompaniment of yellow rice, beans (black, pinto or refried pintos) and corn or flour tortillas (for several of the dishes), we were served a lot of food.
By far, the standout was Lupita's Pollo en Mole ($13.99), a family recipe. Tender pieces of boneless chicken breast smothered in a smoky, spicy dried chile and chocolate sauce. Served with rice, beans and tortillas, it was a winning combination. The Carne Asada ($15.99), listed under traditional dishes, was also a hit: grilled sirloin with jalape–os, onion, sour cream, guacamole accompanied with rice, beans and tortillas was a delicious mix of flavors. Actually, we enjoyed all five dishes we ordered. The meat devotee went for the steak fajitas ($14.99). He said they were fine, though not the best he's ever had; but we noticed that once the sizzling platter of steak strips, onions and bell peppers was placed before him, he barely looked up except to grab another tortilla from the warming dish. The Camarones al Mojo de Ajo ($15.99)--grilled shrimp sautéed in butter and garlic, served with guacamole and a side salad--were so good that the usually light eater was reluctant to share a taste. The wet burrito ($8.99), filled with steak and beans, rice, cheese, sour cream and guacamole, covered in red sauce and cheese, was so big that the 22-year-old with a healthy appetite didn't finish it--he took it home to enjoy the next day.
Although our server was very good about letting us know the status of our appetizer plate while we waited for the one we had ordered, and he made sure that our entrées did not arrive at our table until the appetizer plate (with just a few shreds of lettuce left) was taken away, once we were served our main dishes, we lost sight of him. When the manager came by to see how we were enjoying our meal, we had to ask to have our water glasses refilled--which was done promptly. Our server was a little more attentive after that.
Stuffed though we were, it was a birthday celebration, so dessert was in order. Instead of the homemade flan ($4.25), we split chocolate cake ($4.50), ice cream ($3.75) and pastel de queso--cheesecake--($3.99) among the five of us. The cheesecake was deemed outstanding, rich, creamy, not too sweet. The chocolate cake, baked in a small mold, looked perfect for the chocolate lovers. Though it was rich and chocolaty, with layers of chocolate fudge, it was somewhat dry, the fudge too hard--the ice cream, however, helped perk it up.
We left sated and smiling.
To be fair, El Encanto is still relatively new. They've got the ambiance and the food part down. And our server was energetic, enthusiastic and quite helpful when it came time to order. His mistakes were minor annoyances that, on the whole, did not detract from our meal. This is a great family restaurant<0x2014>lively and appealing, with good food, big portions, lots of choices and moderate prices. And it's only going to get better: a patio for outdoor dining will be ready by summertime.
And you know, another year older, I can live with that.
