If you spend any time in San Anselmo, it doesn't take long before you discover the Chinese Chicken Salad at Comforts. Forget Sunset magazine's description of this town as the "antique capital of Northern California," this salad is good enough to put San Anselmo on the map. And just over a year ago this venerable establishment, which does a brisk takeout service, pushed into the next-door space and now offers a sit-down eating area for breakfast and lunch. If there were any complaints about this place it was the difficulty in securing a table to sit down and enjoy the numerous deli items offered. But now the problem has been solved with the expansion and there is a full menu to go along with the spruced up environs. Being sandwiched between the towns of Ross and Fairfax, it makes sense that San Anselmo would embody a bit of both of its neighboring towns' characteristics. The block where Comforts is situated has a decidedly more southern vibe and the restaurant is no exception. The designer-sunglasses set, mocha-drinking high-schoolers and moms in their SUVs frequent this establishment on a regular basis; and from the looks of the crowds they couldn't be happier with the new chichi digs complete with whimsical track lighting on the ceiling and comfortable booths.
Glenn and Laura Miwa have been fixtures on the Marin restaurant scene for years. The first incarnation of Comforts opened in 1986 and has gone from a sit-down restaurant to a full-service deli and catering operation, and back to something in between. The owners decided that having a designated, more formal sit-down restaurant would be less confusing for their customers. So they have transformed what used to be Barton's Bagels into a lovely, airy space with floor-to-ceiling windows along the street-facing wall. Warm, yellow walls and accents of dark green and burgundy trim evoke a hint of the Mediterranean. But mostly, the room is bright and inviting with a modern, contemporary feel and seems perfectly suited to serve what the tagline on the menu describes as "fine city and homestyle food." The new addition seats about 20 people with a few tables outside.
With three bakers in the kitchen it is no surprise that muffins, scones and assorted pastries feature prominently on the menu. A pecan-crusted challah French toast, filled with sweetened cream cheese, prompted my son to exclaim (loudly), "This is better than Trader Joe's!" I have to agree. This sweet, gooey concoction of nuts, bread and a creamy sweet filling is superb. My poor son only managed to get a few bites down before I inhaled the rest of a generous portion of three large pieces of challah. Lo's scramble ($9.50) was more modestly portioned and included a medley of spinach, caramelized onions and mushrooms. The breakfast menu offers a handful of egg dishes along with lighter items such as buttermilk cornmeal griddlecakes, granola with yogurt and a fresh fruit plate.
Lunch, which is clearly the most popular meal here, can now be enjoyed in the quiet comfort of the new café. Before, you had two choices you could either order to take out or snag one of the coveted tables amid the deli customers coming and going. (This was always a confusing act of negotiating and often the tables were reserved for non-takeout customers only.) Now, you can have a more civilized experience, with friendly full service away from the hustle and bustle. Of course the Chinese Chicken Salad ($8.95, $10.95) is offered front and center, but other choices include a chicken Okasan ($9.95) made of tender chicken breasts encrusted in panko and dipped in the house teriyaki sauce. Jasmine rice and sautéed vegetables are served on the side, but the dish could have used some dipping sauce to moisten the chicken a bit. A giant taco salad ($10.95) featured a mountain of romaine lettuce, black beans, tomato and avocado all resting atop thin strips of tortilla chips. My favorite lunch offering (next to the Chinese Chicken Salad, of course) was the soft spring rolls ($9.50) filled with prawns, avocado, jicama and mint. These fresh rolls, which were listed under the "Choice Cuisine" portion of the menu that indicates the calorie count of the food items, burst with mint and cilantro I could have easily eaten three more.
One thing is certain at Comforts there is a lot to choose from. The new café menu offers a set breakfast and lunch menu, and rotates changing weekly specials. Recent breakfast specials included a strawberry-lemon curd ricotta pancake stack and a Cajun andouille sausage hash topped with two eggs. Smoothies and shakes round out the extensive menu. A jump-start smoothie of blended pineapple, mango, banana, vanilla yogurt and more provided the perfect finish for an afternoon lunch at this perennially popular daytime spot.
