After years of camping in Yosemite, we were introduced to the somewhat rustic--and more comfortable--cabins at Yosemite Lodge. The kids especially liked the cafeteria--pushing a tray along the counter, picking out exactly what they wanted. Since Delaware North Corporation took over as the park's concessionaire, things have changed, and not all for the better.

The biggest disappointment is the Food Court, the cafeteria's replacement. While some of the food is just this side of OK, most of it is just plain bad--and some of it inedible. Arriving back in Marin tired and hungry--and desiring decent food--we decided to try Sonoma Latina Grill, one of several eateries in the relatively new Hamilton Marketplace.

Sonoma Latina Grill is a hybrid: It has the convenience of faster food--ordering at the counter and watching as the meal is put together--along with the comfort and many amenities of a sit-down restaurant.

It's casual and inviting, with granite tables, Mission-style chairs, lots of wrought iron, ornamental tiles and modern, decorative glass lamps. The look is reminiscent of California's adobe-style missions--but the ambiance is festive and noisy (Mexican pop music adds to the din). Real silverware (you might have to ask), glasses and ceramic dishes contribute to the "real" restaurant atmosphere.

Though not as speedy as fast-food outlets, the food is prepared quickly. But it's no burger joint or typical taqueria: no deep-frying, no lard--no trans fats at all--no preservatives, high-fructose corn syrup--not even in the soda--additives or rBST growth hormones are to be found here. Owners Lucy and Michael Tamayo use only fresh, local--and many organic--ingredients. Tortillas and flatbreads are handmade and meats are wood-fired.

It's also small (seating 42 inside, 20 outside). So when our party of six straggled in, there wasn't a table big enough for us (and a high chair). I asked the manager if we were too large a party to accommodate, and he very kindly asked a couple sitting at one of the two large tables (the other occupied by some moms and their Little League sons) if they would move to a smaller table--which they did.

Ordering the first time can be a bit confusing--you can tell who the regulars are. However, the couple of enthusiastic guys behind the counter made it pretty easy.

We discovered that ordering for six people at once is somewhat of a burden for the two people putting the food together, because everything is prepared as you go down the line. But we also learned--too late--that we didn't need as much as we ordered.

The house-made tortillas and flatbreads are excellent. And they are served in generous amounts with several dishes. We all agreed we could have eaten just those and been content. In fact, with the chorizo fundido appetizer ($5.95), we finished off the flatbread wedges and left most of the fundido. We liked watching the preparation--a propane torch melting the huge mound of grated cheeses atop chorizo, chopped onions and fresh chiles. But we found it to be too much of some good things; it was too cheesy and heavy.

We thoroughly enjoyed our two salads--the Sonoma Latina salad ($8.95) and the caprese Mexicana ($6.95). The first is actually a whole meal: organic greens with hominy, fresh corn, radishes, avocado slices, choice of grilled meat (we chose chicken), topped with a house-made vinaigrette and queso fresco, accompanied by flatbread wedges. The caprese Mexicana featured slices of tomato topped with chunks of queso fresco, chopped cilantro and Spanish olive oil--a tasty twist on the Italian version.

The only disappointment among the "main dishes" we tried was the wood-fired pollo asado ($13.95). The free-range chicken half (raised in Marin and Sonoma counties) fell off the bone and had good flavor, but it was dry. Our chicken lover enjoyed the rest of the dish--cilantro rice, house salad and three tortillas. Her request for extra rice in place of beans was granted, and she was quite pleased.

The quesadilla ($7.95) with grilled marinated steak, cheese, sour cream, salsa and guacamole was very good, as were the two flatbread tacos ($7.95), with a choice of meat/chicken and beans, salsa, lettuce and sour cream (or cheese or guacamole).

The chicken burrito ($7.95 with choice of sour cream, cheese or guacamole; or $1.50 more for all three), fully loaded, includes beans (organic pinto or 4-bean blend), cilantro rice, salsa, lettuce and the sour cream, cheese and guacamole. It was a delicious combination, but too big for even a hungry 20-something to finish--though he managed to eat the rest later.

The plato classico ($11.95) consisted of meat (our choice, carne asada), organic pinto beans, cilantro rice, house salad and three of those fabulous tortillas. The kids' quesadilla ($3.95) was cheesy and good, but far too much for our tired toddler.

A selection of bottled beers, including Mexican beers for $3.95 and Russian River Brew (500 ml) for $4.50, is available, along with local and Spanish and South American wines. We enjoyed a glass of Sonoma County's Robledo Pinot Noir ($6.95). Agua frescas and Mexican Coke are also available.

Unfortunately, we were unable to even taste a dessert because we were just too full. Not that we didn't want to; the horchata pudding ($3.95), made with basmati rice, milk, caramel and fresh ground cinnamon was tempting, as was the tres leches cake ($4.50), made with fresh Sonoma County cream, eggs, butter and honey, topped with fresh crema. Next time we'll know better and order less, no matter how hungry we think we are.

The Tamayos' winning formula of combining a limited number of wholesome ingredients to create a variety of dishes with their own distinctive flavors evolved from Michael's own childhood in a busy family. He says his mother always had a pot of beans, a pot of rice and carnitas, carne asada or chicken, etc., on the stove and family members, constantly on the run, would throw some of these items together for a quick, easy, healthy and delicious meal.

Although it's certainly possible to get in and out in a short amount of time, there's enough here that you might just want to sit, savor and relax for a while.

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SONOMA LATINA GRILL
5800 Nave Dr. (in the Hamilton Marketplace), Novato; 415/883-2662. Open Sunday through Thursday 11am-9pm, Friday and Saturday 11am-10pm.

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