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Just when I was starting to feel sorry for anyone opening up a new restaurant in these times, along comes Whipper Snapper in San Rafael to brighten up everyone's day. Vibrating with color and good cheer in the space that once housed Millie's and more recently Maria Manso World Cuisine on Fourth Street, Whipper Snapper got my mojo working one stormy night last week.

Open since mid-November of last year, chef/owner Bill Higgins' lively oasis for California-Caribbean comfort food is an excellent antidote to dismal forecasts of any stripe. Even the prices are reassuring. Portions are generous, flavors robust and nothing on the menu costs more than $14.

Higgins was executive chef and co-owner of Cha Cha Cha, the tapas house on Haight Street, for 13 years. If you ever snaked your way through that dining room teeming with ravenous 20-somethings, you may feel soothed by the much mellower scene at this new venture.

I initially cringed at the Afro-Cuban music pulsating at the entryway, but by the time I had savored a glass of sangria ($5, or $14-$22 for a half or whole pitcher) I was smiling and moving my shoulders and feet to the beat. I'd forgotten about Cha Cha Cha, probably because it's a whole lot harder to find a parking place on Haight Street than in the west end of San Rafael.

This sense of well-being emanates in part from the spirited palette chosen by interior designer Leslie Burns for Higgins and his wife Debra, who runs the house. Leaving the demilune bar at the entrance, they painted the interior walls a turquoise as deep as the Caribbean, covering the tables with tropically flowered oilcloth.

Presiding around the room are Patrick Maloney's jazzy, whimsical figures sculpted from recycled materials. Along the east wall, free-form metal sconces shimmer within arched niches, scattering diffuse light like sunlight sparkling on the sea. For balmy nights there's a patio in the rear with seating for 25. What a great place for a party!

Many tapas from Cha Cha Cha have made the move to this menu, but at Whipper Snapper, Higgins is concentrating on provender from local organic farmers. The fish is wild or sustainably farmed, and the meat and fowl from local purveyors whenever possible.

Fried sweet plantains with black beans and sour cream, and organic fingerling potatoes with rosemary and chili pasilla aioli (each $7) are examples of old favorites that are comforting to find reinvented in this new habitat. At lunchtime, in addition to the tapas and salads, Higgins offers sandwiches served on French bread with a choice of mixed greens or plantain fries with chipotle ketchup.

We started with a half pitcher of the aforementioned sangria. It's strong, spicy and not too sweet, served chilled. I asked for a glass of ice to water it down a bit, and next time will probably cut it with sparkling water as well. The current trend in sangria seems to be still water, but I have happy memories of feeling oh-so-sophisticated quaffing homemade sangrias spiked with seltzer back when I first came of age.

In addition to the red version, Whipper Snapper makes a fruity white one. Also offered are handcrafted beers from local microbreweries, bottled beers, a small selection of wines by the glass or bottle and assorted soft drinks, specialty coffees and teas.

My companion needed sustenance quickly, so a big bowl of the soup du jour ($5), a soft and soulful chicken with rice, was whisked to the table. It was perfect for the designated purpose and perked him up right away. After the soup, we tucked right into a snappy plate of ceviche ($9). Chewy chunks of snapper, shrimp and tiny bay scallops had been marinated in lime juice, piquant with peppers, red onions and cilantro. The flavors, like the décor, were clean, bright and refreshing. Even on this cold and rainy night I enjoyed every cool bite.

Service was quick and efficient. Our young server was relaxed, knowledgeable and friendly. During the middle of our meal we saw her dancing a spontaneous tango with a patron from the bar. That must have been when I realized how much fun I was having.

My Caesar salad ($8) of chopped romaine was tossed unevenly in a creamy dressing of lime and anchovy, with a sprinkled drift of manchego cheese. Of the dishes we had, it seemed the least thoughtfully prepared, but the bites that were dressed were delicious.

From the list of daily specials we chose the evening's last serving of beef medallions with fingerling potatoes and an ample sheaf of beautifully sautéed greens ($14). This dish could have held its own on any menu in the county, only it would have cost twice as much at most places. The beef was seared to a tender medium rare and bathed in a tangy wine reduction.

Our second entrée of pork loin ($13) was equally prized by its owner. Two grilled loins glazed with tamarind and apricots reclined on a bed of organic mashed sweet potatoes with a side of colorful slaw.

Desserts (all $6) all sounded luscious, but we could only manage one to share. Vanilla rum flan in a pool of golden caramel went down smoothly. But there is also a lime curd tart with raspberries, a chocolate studded bread pudding and a double-decker brownie with chocolate sauce and vanilla ice cream that could turn Whipper Snapper into a go-to spot for dessert alone.

Scattered around the county there have always been a handful of restaurants that offer consistently satisfying food at affordable prices. We all have our favorite places for nights when we need some casual, inexpensive pampering. Whipper Snapper shines in that constellation, because in addition to the food, the atmosphere is so irrepressibly upbeat. The message is clear: Don't worry. Be happy.

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WHIPPER SNAPPER
1613 Fourth Street, San Rafael; 415/256-1818. Open for lunch Tuesday through Sunday 11:30am-3pm; dinner Tuesday through Thursday 5-9:30pm, Friday and Saturday 5-10:30pm, Sunday 5-9pm. Beer and wine. Wheelchair accessible. All major credit cards.

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