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Marin is filled with interesting and eclectic corners, neighborhoods and regions that defy convention. Perhaps nowhere is this more evident than in Sausalito.

Going back a few hundred years one sees that, while it was not always so chic, Sausalito has always been a desirable place to live, beginning with the Costal Miwok Indians. Sausalito's 19th Century history is punctuated by a series of false starts. In 1838, English settler William Richardson, captain of the Port of San Francisco, received a Mexican land grant covering much of the Marin Headlands and named it Rancho del Sausalito—"Ranch of the Little Willow Grove." By 1868 Gold Rush miners discovered Sausalito—or, as it was known then, Saucelito—intending to further settle the town. According to the Sausalito Historical Society, 19 savvy businessmen from that era bought the land from Richardson and began a ferrying business.

In the early 1870s, the Northern Pacific Railroad extended its tracks into town, bringing Portuguese, Germans, Chinese, Italians, Greeks and other Americans by the hundreds. It was around this time that an enduring delineation was established: The wealthy occupied the hills, and the laborers lived near the water.

During Marin's turn-of-the-century growth spurt Sausalito served as the primary port of entry for commuters, but had yet to forge a strong identity of its own. The construction of the Golden Gate Bridge brought increased development and sent land values skyward.

After the attack on Pearl Harbor, the government began scouring the coast for potential emergency shipyard locations. Sausalito's waterfront and the mud flats of Richardson's Bay proved ideal— the Bechtel Company moved in at the behest of the federal Maritime Commission and soon hulking steel craft were sliding down Marinship's launch ways.

Thousands of laborers from across the country were brought in to work on the merchant Liberty ships and tankers, causing a temporary population explosion that threatened to overwhelm the sleepy town's housing supply. After the war ended, things quieted down again. But the infrastructure built during that tumultuous period remained, meaning that a fully developed stretch of water stood awaiting a new purpose.

Today, that purpose is manifold. Some docks and marinas have become collections of floating homes, ranging from rickety, diminutive wooden craft to palatial domiciles perched atop steady barges.

But Sausalito is more than its waterfront. On a clear day from practically anywhere on the Bridgeway thoroughfare, it's a straight shot view of the city's iconic skyline—-with views of Angel Island and Alcatraz shuffling for position over the sparkling crests of the Bay.

Looking out over this stunning, watery expanse it is easy to forget that the serene view is from Bridgeway, Sausalito's main drag. As you walk, run or roll down this seaside street, it becomes clear that it's a place for locals, visitors and day-trippers alike. Cozy cafés, knickknack stores, art galleries, swanky boutiques and exquisite restaurants line the banks of the bay.

Sausalito's main corridor has come a long way from the working-class laborers who once dominated its shores to today's educated professionals who stroll the sidewalks, but the street has managed to maintain its neighborhood feel.

Tucked just above Bridgeway between Napa and Johnson streets, Caledonia Street is not far from the San Francisco ferry drop-off. Still, it remains a well-kept secret compared to Bridgeway. Out-of-towners walk right on by. Skirting Caledonia, they miss what many residents consider the soul of Sausalito. Locals prefer it that way.

More than a collection of shops, Caledonia is a community. Hidden here are the essentials—-a bookstore, a gourmet grocer, ethnic restaurants, fitness centers, art galleries, antiques, a theater, a park, even a neighborhood bar—-run for years by the same family.

The street is Sausalito's seat of government. City Hall sits at one end, the fire station at the other. A few spots draw folks from around Marin—-like the Michelin Guide-listed Sushi Ran—-but most cater to Caledonians. Longtime resident Vicki Nichols says, "It's great for dinner, light lunch, entertainment and just walking. You can get around without a car. I can hear the foot traffic—-the moms and the nannies coming down the street. That really sets the tone, the community feel."

Before Bridgeway was built as the major thoroughfare, Caledonia was Sausalito's main street. It was a community gathering place, explains Nichols. In that pre-fridge era, she says, "folks used to come down to Caledonia to get ice." They'd stand around mingling, chatting. "That history," she affirms, "contributes to the feeling it still has today." There are no one-stop-shopping outlets. Nobody wants them. Residents revere their local establishments.

Protected from the fog of the Golden Gate, Caledonia is the site of the spring street fair. It's also Sausalito's main parade route. Chamarita, the annual Portuguese celebration, includes a grand procession, complete with marching bands and a little queen in a long robe, in recognition of the bounty of food that Queen Isabella once gave a group of starving Portuguese travelers. A significant part of the city's history, the Portuguese left several halls and the festival as a legacy before many went north for more land.

The beauty of the water is one thing shared by the entire community. Only one block away from the waterfront, Caledonia is part of that collective heritage, something everyone wants to protect.

For much more information on Caledonia, Bridgeway and Sausalito's waterfront, click on the links below.
Sausalito Waterfront
Caledonia
Bridgeway