Dining at Rumi by Famous Kabob in San Rafael's Montecito Shopping Center may not transport diners back to ancient Persia, but the ambiance and cuisine lifts the spirits and, for a short while, takes one out of the hubbub of the suburban shopping center.

Formerly a Yucatan restaurant, and an Afghan eatery before that, Rumi, set back in the courtyard area, has been transformed into a delightful, soothing spot. This younger sibling of a Sacramento-based Persian eatery has comfortable booths, and tables, topped with white tablecloths and fresh flowers; classical music and a couple of chandeliers add to the formality (though there is nothing stuffy about it at all). A "scroll" of mystic poet Rumi's writings on the wall and bird-related (good omens) decor embellish the room.

The agreeable atmosphere is complemented by the exceedingly polite and helpful staff. Service is attentive with a concerted effort to please patrons. Our server even went to the kitchen to verify that she answered one of our questions correctly, which we really appreciated.

While we perused the interesting menu, taftoon--warm, unleavened bread--served with feta cheese, red onions and a mixture of fresh herbs, appeared on the table. The aromatic taftoon, with and without the accompaniments, was the highlight of the meal.

Eggplant in a tomato saffron sauce ($7) or pureed ($7), hummus ($5) and mast-o-khiar (yogurt and cucumber) ($5) are among the reasonably priced appetizers. One of the most interesting--and quite tasty--is tah dig ($9). The menu describes this crispy rice as "literally 'bottom of the pot.'" A choice of stews (beef, chicken and vegetarian options) is served atop the rice. The fesenjon, or heavenly stew, of ground walnuts mixed with pomegranate juice, slowly cooked with chicken, is aptly named. It was flavorful and very pomegranate-y. The rice was, as advertised, quite crispy.

We were less impressed with the kabob entrees ($14 to $22), although not with the quantity of food. The menu does state that kabobs are served "with a huge portion of light, fluffy, world-famous basmati rice topped with saffron..." For $2 more, half the rice is substituted with salad shirazi, a delicious combination of diced Persian cucumber, tomato, red onion, parsley and mint, or a green salad, drenched in dressing and none too exciting. The basmati rice, perfectly cooked, each grain separate and indeed fluffy, was still too much, even at half the portion. A variety of chicken, beef, lamb and seafood are offered as kabobs, each cooked over an open grill. A grilled tomato, which was, unfortunately, bland, completes the plate. We didn't dislike the kabobs; they were fine, though they didn't compare with the heavenly stew or the bread.

Do save room for dessert. The house saffron ice cream ($4), with saffron, rosewater and bits of pistachio, served in a large parfait glass, was unlike any I've ever tasted (and I've tasted a lot). The texture was similar to that of hand-cranked ice cream, the rosewater and saffron perceptible. Surprisingly, it was not very sweet, which was a good thing, since we were eating it with baklava ($3.50). We couldn't resist the three small pieces of flaky, rich, sweet pastry and the ice cream was a good foil.

Wine and beer, in addition to juice (including pomegranate) and soft drinks, yogurt soda ($3), house or bottled, are available. We were tempted to order yogurt soda, but the idea of carbonated yogurt just didn't appeal enough to try.

Rumi offers a dining experience that's a bit different from most other ethnic eateries in the county. And, as is true of traditional diets from many other cultures, Persian cuisine uses ingredients--pistachios, pomegranates, walnuts--that have appeared on every "what you should be eating for better health" list over the past decade. Good and good for you? I'll eat to that.

RUMI BY FAMOUS KABOB

227 Third Street, San Rafael; 415/455-9797, rumibyfamouskabob.com. Open Sunday through Saturday 11am-10pm.

Dish with Carol at cinkellis@pacificsun.com.

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