GIVING THANKS, WITH OR WITHOUT TURKEY Thanksgiving reservation lists fill quickly most years, but there's reason to believe that last-minute plans are possible this time around. I won't offer a comprehensive roster of Marin restaurants and menus since everyone has a favorite style of feasting. Instead, I will suggest a few that could answer diners' different moods with ways to match them--all in one town. I chose Larkspur because it has an almost-East Coast feel to it (a quality I yearn for around Thanksgiving) and several places there where very different meals will be available. The Tavern at Lark Creek is offering a $59.95 feast that will include turkey and sophisticated side dishes but also appealing protein choices for those who wish to stray from the traditional: roasted natural Hampshire pork chop, short ribs or sauteed fish with first courses like baked oysters and Louisiana boudin blanc (415/924-7766)...

Only half-a-block away is Yankee Pier, where on a New England-style menu a whole lobster might replace turkey for those who crave a break from the expected. The dinner is $39, including items like squash soup, glazed carrots with turnips and cornbread (415/924-7676)...

At Left Bank Brasserie there will be a spread of all-American Thanksgiving specials for $39.75 with separate menus for children and vegetarians. People desiring a more casual celebration can head for the bar where food from the dining room menu as well as regular a la carte favorites will be available all day long (415/927-3331)...

A suggestion to enhance the autumn mood: If it's feasible to time things just right, combine a Thanksgiving feed in Larkspur with a stroll in nearby Ross Commons or the Marin Art and Garden Center.

TASTY READING While bookstores are closing all around, Book Passage manages to sail along, continuing its popular events that reach out to the food community: luxurious meals honoring food writers or chefs, free appearances in the store by others. There's a holiday feel to the line-up scheduled for the next several weeks by the Corte Madera establishment, so mark your calendars now. Insalata's Mediterranean Table, Heidi Krahling's cookbook inspired by her San Anselmo restaurant, was released early this month. A Book Passage-sponsored celebration of its publication in the place where the recipes were born will take place Dec. 2 at noon. Foods straight from the original kitchen will star on the luncheon menu. Cost is $100 per person, which includes the meal, wines, tax, gratuities and a signed copy of the cookbook...

And speaking of stars: Thomas Keller, chef extraordinaire, will drop by Book Passage on Saturday, Dec. 5, from 3 to 5pm to talk about his latest work, Ad Hoc at Home. Unlike former works from the creator of The French Laundry and Per Se (America's most vaunted restaurants), this cookbook is aimed at ordinary cooks with recipes used in his more casual Napa dining destination, Ad Hoc...

More modest ambitions are met in the combined efforts of two mothers in Cooking Dinner: Simple Italian Family Recipes Everyone Can Make, by Rima Barkett and Claudia Pruett. They will be at the bookshop Dec. 6 at 4pm to discuss their easy-to-follow approach to everyday meals with Italian flavors...

Georgeanne Brennan is an award-winning cookbook writer who will arrive just in time to inspire holiday party-planning when she comes to Left Bank in Larkspur to introduce Gather: Memorable Menus for Entertaining Throughout the Seasons. The Dec. 6 dinner (6pm) is $100 per person/$165 per couple; this covers the meal, wines, tax, gratuities and one signed copy of the book...Reservations and information: 415/927-0960 or visit www.bookpassage.com.

GIVE OTHERS A REASON TO BE THANKFUL Food donations can still be made for the upcoming holiday for those in need. Here are some Web sites with details on how to contribute--as soon as possible: www.canalalliance.com, www.rittercenter.org, www.vinnies.org (St. Vincent de Paul); and you can call Jewish Family & Children Services at 415/419-3661 for ways to stock its food pantry.

Thank Pat at patfusco@sonic.net.

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