Halloween has been usurped, turned into today's constant carnival of Goths and vampires, with zombie movies and games of the supernatural everywhere. This is a crime against children whose magic holiday it once was, and I am paying little or no attention to it this month. Instead, I'm moving toward another celebration: Dia de Los Muertos, or Day of the Dead, Mexico's loving tribute to those from the other side of the grave.

A superficial glance at the images representing it reveals dancing skeletons and rattling bones, bizarre sugar candy skulls and brightly colored tissue paper scissored into death-themed panels. These handicrafts are parts of the tradition--but only the most obvious, more commercial ones. A deeper look finds countless ways of honoring the dead with food and drink, flowers and artifacts, incense and candles, music and dance. While it is a serious combination of indigenous memories and Roman Catholicism, it is also whimsical and joyous, with playful festivities leading up to its celebration between Oct. 31 and Nov. 2.

Throughout Mexico there are regional variations in customs. To invite the return of the spirits of those who have gone before, altars (ofrendas) are created in homes: tables covered in bright cloth (sometimes with lacy green stalks of sugar cane tied to the legs and arched over the surface) laden with foods, drink, favorite possessions--cigarettes, new clothing, toys for children, photographs. Candles burn day and night; the distinctive smell of copal (a resin used as incense) fills the air. In Patzcuaro, decorated boats ferry people across the largest lake to island cemeteries where they spend the night among candlelit graves; Oaxacans bearing gifts and flowers visit outlying villages famous for artistic altars; Mexico City's museums and public spaces stage exhibits of altars along with music and dance.

To prepare for the feast that is served to both the living and the dead, women gather for days, making piles of slow-steamed tamales, both sweet and savory. They bake ceremonial breads--large coffeecake-like sweet breads decorated with "bones" of cut out-dough, and small rolls (some in fanciful animal shapes for children who have died). From the recent harvest they create dishes from pumpkin, beans and corn, and nourishing atole, thick drinks of corn masa mixed with pineapple or other fruits. Hot chocolate is comforting in cool evenings, made with spiced chocolate discs, mixed into milk by twirling a wooden molinillo. Huge pots of meaty stews and hearty soups are prepared to offset the effects of mescal and tequila consumed during the reunions of families and friends. Flowers are gathered in profusion; most popular are marigolds, their pungent scent believed to attract wandering spirits to their homes.

By Nov. 3 all returns to normal. The dead have been honored, the living go on to face the change of the season with shorter days and longer nights, a darker time of year.

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Bread is one of the most important items on every altar. Pan de Muertos--Day of the Dead Bread--is baked in abundance for presentation and to be shared with guests. The recipe that follows is baked as a round loaf that may be adorned with crossed "bones" made from some of the dough, placed around the knob on top.

Pan de Muertos

1/4 cup each butter, milk and warm water (110 degrees)

3 cups all-purpose flour

1-1/4 teaspoons active dry yeast

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons anise seed

1/4 cup white sugar

2 eggs, beaten

2 teaspoons orange zest

1/4 cup each white sugar, orange juice

1 tablespoon orange zest

2 tablespoons white sugar

Heat the milk and butter together in a medium saucepan, until the butter melts. Remove from heat and add warm water. The mixture should be around 110 degrees.

In a large bowl combine 1 cup of the flour, yeast, salt, anise seed and 1/4 cup of sugar. Beat in the warm milk mixture, then add the eggs and orange zest and beat until well combined. Stir in 1/2 cup of flour and continue adding more flour until the dough is soft.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead until smooth and elastic.

Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl, cover with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place until doubled in size (about 1-2 hours). Punch the dough down and shape it into a large round loaf with a round knob on top. Place on a baking sheet, loosely covered with plastic wrap, and let rise in a warm place for about 1 hour or until just about doubled in size.

Bake in a preheated 350-degree oven for about 35-45 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool slightly.

Meanwhile, make the glaze: In a small saucepan combine the 1/4 cup sugar, orange juice and orange zest. Bring to a boil over medium heat and boil for 2 minutes. Brush over top of bread while still warm. Sprinkle glazed bread with white sugar.

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Pumpkin is used in many ways for feasting during Dia de los Muertos. It is included in stews and soups, made into a filling for tamales, its seeds are hulled and eaten as sugar-glazed or salted snacks (pepitas). One of the favorite dishes is a long-cooked sweet made with piloncillo (a dark brown form of sugar sold in solid cones), eaten warm for breakfast with cream, or as dessert, chilled and paired with vanilla ice cream. The version that follows is loosely based on a recipe from Michoacon and it uses regular brown sugar--a lot of it.

Calabaza en Tacha

1 medium pumpkin, about 5 pounds (sugar pumpkin preferred)

8 cups water, approximately

1-1/2 pounds (about 4 cups) dark brown sugar

2 cinnamon sticks (3-4 inches each)

Keep rind on to prevent skin from falling apart during cooking. Wash and dry pumpkin. Poke holes with a knife in several spots to allow syrup to penetrate flesh.

Cut pumpkin in half lengthwise, clean out seeds and fibers, then cut it into 3-inch chunks or crescent slices.

In a wide heavy pot (Dutch oven) add pumpkin, sugar and cinnamon sticks. Add enough water to cover completely.

Bring to a boil. Cover pot and cook pumpkin over medium-high heat 15 minutes. Remove lid. Simmer, uncovered, until liquid is reduced to thick syrup and pumpkin is tender and glazed, 1-2 hours.

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Julian Medina is chef of Toloache, a noted Mexican restaurant in Manhattan. He created the following recipe to be served as part of a Day of the Dead menu several years ago.

Candied Pumpkin Seeds

1 pound hulled pumpkin seeds (pepitas: look for them in bulk foods sections)

1 cup granulated sugar

White of one large egg

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Heat oven to 300 degrees.

Combine all ingredients in large mixing bowl, stirring well to thoroughly combine. Spread mixture evenly in a rimmed baking sheet.

Bake for 30 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes. Remove baking sheet from oven and place on a rack to cool.

Honoring the ancestors

Learn more about Day of the Dead and its complex blend of pre-Hispanic and religious customs right near home. The Petaluma Arts Council is sponsoring Flames of the Heart/Llamas Del Corazon Oct. 17-Nov. 2 with workshops, exhibits and live performances. At Colors of Spanish, a family-centered event Oct. 17 (1-5 pm) will cover the celebration's history and traditions; an Oct. 24 workshop (2-5pm) at the Farmers Market will teach participants to make decorative sugar candy skulls. For a complete schedule, visit www.petalumaartscouncil.org. The area's biggest public celebration takes place Nov. 2 (7-11pm) in San Francisco's Mission District. A huge candlelit procession at 7pm starts at 24th and Bryant and wends its way to 26th and Harrison, where Festival of Altars (some by famous artists) will be outdoors for viewing. Information: www.dayofthedeadsf.org.

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